This 11-day, exploratory trip was designed to investigate
dry-country birding of Mali, combined with visits to Timbuktu and Dogon
Country, some of Africa’s most famous historical sites. The main
habitats birded were the fringes of the Sahara desert, the Sahel, Guinea
Woodlands and the Niger River and associated wetlands. Highlights from
this trip included Pharaoh’s/Desert Eagle Owl, Cream-coloured Courser,
Red-necked Nightjar, Mali Firefinch, Ferruginous Duck, Egyptian Plover,
Little Grey Woodpecker, Western Red-billed Hornbill, Sudan Golden Sparrow,
Desert Sparrow, Lavender Waxbill, Fulvous Chatterer, White-crowned Black
Wheatear, Desert Lark, Great Snipe, House Bunting and Sardinian Warbler.
DAY 1: Bamako
area
Our tour kicked off in Bamako, a large, sprawling city set on the banks
of the languid Niger River. Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird, Common Chiffchaff
and delicate Lavender Waxbill and African Silverbill frequented our hotel
gardens, where we all gathered. In the early afternoon we forced our way
through town traffic and drove some 50km west of Bamako, in search of
Guinea Woodlands. En route, we found Red-throated and Northern Carmine
Bee-eaters drifting overhead. Well-developed woodland along the base of
a rocky hillside looked promising, so we took the opportunity for a gentle
introductory amble. Double-spurred Francolin and Stone Partridge favoured
tall grass and rocks along the cliffs, whereas Red-necked Rock Hyrax hopped
along the cliff tops. In the woodlands below, we found a large, mixed
foraging flock of birds including a pair of Fine-spotted Woodpecker, dainty
Senegal Eremomela, raucous Brown Babblers and Yellow-billed Shrikes, Pygmy
and Beautiful Sunbirds, Grey-headed Bush-Shrike, White Helmetshrike and
Red-cheeked Cordon-Blue. We also found Black-billed and Vinaceous Doves,
Senegal Parrot, Western Grey Plantain-eater, Western Red-billed Hornbill,
a couple of striking Bearded Barbets and a single, timid European Pied
Flycatcher. We timed our return in the evening to watch the sun setting
over the Niger River.
DAY 2: Bamako
to Gao
Gao, in the far east of the country, was, like its more famous cousin,
Timbuktu, an important trading post in 1500 and 1600s. Today its importance
is much diminished, although getting there couldn’t be easier. From
Bamako we flew eastwards, stopping at Mopti (Village Indigobird and Greater
Blue-eared Starling) and Timbuktu on our way. Our arrival was followed
with a relaxed lunch in the hotel gardens, accompanied by Blue-naped Mousebird.
But we wasted no time in getting out to the surrounding plains. Not far
out of town, we flushed from the road a pair of Desert Larks, and shortly
afterwards a small flock of Black-crowned Sparrowlarks. Nearby, Acacia
thickets held Black Scrub-Robin. Next, a large flock of Chestnut-bellied
Sandgrouse was spotted foraging on the ground, in the company of African
Collared Dove, followed by Northern Wheatear and a party of five Fulvous
Chatterers scurrying from bush to bush. As the sun kissed the horizon,
we spotted our first flock of Cream-coloured Courser, which we watched
dart about until it was too dark to see. We rounded off a great afternoon
with a short night drive, finding Sand Fox and Red-necked Nightjar, calling
incessantly.
DAY 3: Gao
area
With a full day to explore the Saharan edge around Gao, we made an early
start, crossing the Niger River to the west. As we waited for our ferry,
we scanned the banks of the river, finding African Jacana, Black-winged
Stilt, our first of many Egyptian Plover, Spur-winged Lapwing and, in
the rank river-side vegetation, Black-headed Weaver. Overhead, tens of
Purple Herons were heading out to forage, together with the odd Spur-winged
Goose and Knob-billed Duck. Several Western Marsh Harriers were also in
search of breakfast.
Not far out of town we came to a screeching halt; our
second group of Cream-coloured Coursers had been spotted. In the sharp
mourning light we admired all their finer features, eventually distracted
by several warbler species in a nearby thicket: Western Bonelli’s,
Western Orphean and Subalpine Warblers. Further on, in a sea of sand dunes,
we went for a long stroll, finding several Saharan species. These included
Southern Grey Shrike, Brown-necked Raven, Cricket Warbler and Black-eared
Wheatear. The highlight was a sharp African Swallow-tailed Kite, which
lazily circled over our head. On our way back to Gao for lunch, we found
our first of many Sudan Golden Sparrows, before heading out to some nearby
cliffs for the afternoon. Around the base of the cliffs, a pair of Crested
Larks and several House Buntings fed quietly among the dark gravel. A
Blackstart flitted about nervously, flicking its wings in agitation. Along
one of the densely-chocked gullies we found a striking pair of Yellow-breasted
Barbets and a party of Little Green Bee-eaters, but the undoubted champion
was a stunning Pharaoh’s Eagle Owl, that sat sunning itself for
the last hour of light, its big orange eyes glowing like the sun.
DAY 4: Gao
to Timbuktu
With the long, sandy drive to Timbuktu ahead of us, we set off before
sunrise, our highly accomplished Taureg driver, Baba, at the helm. We
bounced along the north bank of the Niger, with the occasional Taureg
town perched along its banks. At one of these, we made a breakfast stop
to examine a large group of terns and waders, with Black-tailed Godwit,
Spotted and Common Redshanks, Gull-billed and Caspian Terns and Pied Wagtail
in its ranks. One of the more surprising finds was White-crowned Black
Wheatear, which frequented rooftops in most of the villages. Several raptors
put in an appearance, most noteworthy of which included a lone Egyptian
Vulture soaring over the desert, a Red-necked Falcon perched in a Niger-side
palm and a smart Lanner sitting atop a rose-coloured sand dune. Few birds
were seen in the desert, although one flock of about 15 Greater Short-toed
Lark was found. We reached Timbuktu in the late afternoon, with the sense
that the nature of the journey was befitting of our destination.
DAYS 5 and 6: Timbuktu
– deserts and lakes
The vicinity of Timbuktu offers excellent desert and wetland birding in
spectacular surrounds. The town itself warranted some of our attention
too – we were at the ends of the world, after all - particularly
the impressive mosque. We had two full days to explore the area of Timbuktu,
and to acquaint ourselves with one of the most famous, yet least-visited,
places on earth.
Once again with our revered driver, Baba, in charge,
we sailed through the sand dunes north of Timbuktu. Dune after dune stretched
as far as the eye could see, only occasionally interrupted by a Taureg
nomad with camels. Although the birding wasn’t spectacular, the
experience of driving deeper into the Sahara from Timbuktu was not to
be sneezed at. We also found our only Desert Sparrows of the trip, small
flocks feeding among Fulvous Chatterers, and a particularly popular Arabian
Bustard, which watched us warily from atop a dune.
To the west of Timbuktu, stands of Acacias were more
prominent, holding a greater array of species. One stop was particularly
productive, producing Black Scimitarbill, a pair of Great-spotted Cuckoos,
three Little Grey Woodpeckers, arguably Africa’s least-seen woodpecker,
and a surprise Sardinian Warbler.
The birding highlight of the Timbuktu area, however,
is a series of lakes located some 80 to 100 km to the west of the city.
We spent a day exploring these, and were not disappointed, particularly
by the numbers of Palaearctic migrants. Raptors were plentiful, with at
least 30 individuals seen at one of the lakes; among these were Short-toed
Eagles, Montagu’s, Western Marsh and Pallid Harriers and Booted
Eagles. The lake shores hosted thousands of wading birds, including the
occasional Collared Pratincole and Common Ringed Plover, many Little Ringed
and Kittlitz’s Plovers, Temminck’s Stint and a lone Great
Snipe. These were accompanied by the likes of Eurasian Turtle-Dove, Ethiopian
Swallow, Yellow Wagtail by the thousand, Red-throated Pipit, Sedge Warbler,
Cinnamon-chested Bunting and White-rumped Seedeater. In the more swampy
areas we found impressive numbers of herons, and a healthy population
of Purple Swamphen. The highlight, however, was a flock of wintering waterfowl
that must have been some 100 000 strong. Most of these were Northern Shoveller,
Garganey or Northern Pintail, but some 5 000 plus Ferruginous Duck joined
their ranks. An impressive sight!
DAY 7: Timbuktu
to Douentza
Leaving the sand seas of the Sahara behind us, we crossed back over the
Niger River and made our way southwards towards Douentza, through the
Reserve of Elephants. The wind had picked up considerably today and most
birds were lying low, although we did find a Tawny Eagle perched next
to the road, in an area of open dunes with scattered trees. Nearer Douentza
trees became more prominent, with groves of Faidherbia attracting Abyssinian
Roller, Woodchat Shrike, White-billed Buffalo Weaver, Speckle-fronted
Weaver and Northern Long-tailed Starling.
DAY 8: Dogon
Country (Douentza to Sanga to Bandiangara)
After Timbuktu, the most famous region of Mali is Dogon country, with
its unusual cliff villages located along the 200 m high Bandiangara Escarpment.
The escarpment itself rises steeply out of a wide, flat Sahelian plain,
onto the rocky Dogon Plateau. We spent the better part of two days exploring
this unusual area.
En route from Douentza we found a lone Red-necked Buzzard
perched in a Faidherbia with a group of Mottled and Alpine Swifts swirling
overhead. The shrieks of Rose-ringed Parakeet had now become a regular
feature, while a pair of Vieillott’s Barbet were finally located,
having heard them on several occasions previously. Herds of cattle provided
rich pickings for groups of Yellow-billed Oxpecker, and did a good job
of disturbing insects for noisy bands of Piapiacs. Once we’d reached
the escarpment, a new suite of species appeared. Among the most conspicuous
birds were wild-breeding Rock Doves, flocks of jet-black Neumann’s
Starling, Mocking Cliff Chat and Fox Kestrel, more common here than perhaps
anywhere else in Africa. Grassy areas along the escarpment hid coveys
of Stone Partridge, the occasional Sun Lark, scarce Rock-loving Cisticola
and flocks of seedeaters, including Black-rumped Waxbill and Mali’s
only endemic bird Mali Firefinch. Bare areas on top of the plateau were
frequented by Black-headed Lapwing, with Acacia thickets revealing a striking
Cutthroat and Guinea Woodlands a Rufous-crowned Roller.
No trip to Dogon country, however, would be complete
without a visit to one of the cliff villages, which surpassed everyone’s
expectations. At the village of Irelli we climbed towards the base of
the steep cliffs, winding through narrow passages through high-walled
pantries, admiring Dogon doors and locks and the unusual Togunas, while
being regaled with far-fetched stories about flying Tellem, the constructors
of the bizarre buildings plastered high up along the inaccessible cliffs.
An experience not to be missed!
DAYS 10-12: Back
to Bamako (Bandiangara to Djenne to Segou to Bamako)
It was time to complete our journey westwards to Bamako. Still some 1000
km away, we broke our journey with two overnight stops, one at Djenne
with its infamous Mosque and colourful Monday market, and one at Segou.
The floodplains along the Niger River around Djenne
were excellent for birds. Here we added to our list Black Stork and, on
the already-dry floodplain, Temminck’s Courser and African Qualfinch.
Acacia thickets played home to Greater Whitethroat and Northern Paradise
Whydah. Along the river itself we said our farewells to a firm favourite,
the iconic Egyptian Plover. Around Segou, woodlands hosted flocks of starlings,
including Lesser Blue-eared and Purple Starlings, Common Gonolek and,
finally Red-chested Swallow.
Acknowledgements: We’d like to thank Françoise Dowsett-Lemaire, Bob
Dowsett, Andrew Hester and Olivier Girard for sharing information with
us, and especially Mary Crickmore who hosted us on a morning’s birding
outing near Bamako.
Birding Africa is a specialist birding tour company customising tours
for both world listers and more relaxed holiday birders, and combining
interests in mammals, butterflies, dragonflies, plants and other natural
history. Our guides know the continents
birds like few others; we've written two acclaimed guide
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and will guide you to Africa's and Madagascar's most diverse birding destinations.
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