Trip Report: Namibia, birding in Africa's living desert, 10-26 March 2006

10 March 2006

Day 1

After a mid-afternoon arrival at the International Airport in Windhoek, we transferred to our accommodation to settle in.  After a short rest, we headed off for some bead shopping in town, and then for late afternoon birding in the nearby Daan Viljoen Nature Reserve. Although we’d seen a few species on the drive from airport, this was our first taste of birding in Namibia ­ and the rolling hills covered in acacia woodland are an excellent place to start. It was a terrific introduction to thornveld and Namibia’s birds and mammals. The birding was diverse, with excellent looks in the late afternoon light at many species including Rockrunner, Violet-eared Waxbill, Rock Kestrel, Black-chested Snake-eagle, Shaft-tailed Whydah, Short-Toed Rock-Thrush, and Ground-scraper Thrush. Mammal highlights were our first views of Dassie Rat, Blue Wildebeest with young, the endemic Hartmann’s Mountain Zebra, and Red Hartebeest. We also saw our first male Common Diadem butterfly.

11 March 2006

Day 2

Although this was a long day with much driving, the scenery was truly spectacular! We were struck by the greenery of the landscape following record rains over the preceding few months, from the highlands of Windhoek with its mountain scenery, down to the Namib Desert below.

The morning provided us with great views of the brown, scaly Bradfield’s Swift, allowing us to compare it to other swifts flying nearby (during our fuel fill up at the gas station). At Spreetshoogte Pass, we enjoyed picnic lunch with sweeping views onto green Namib plains. We also stopped at Solitaire where we had fabulous brown bread and tomato sandwiches. At our accommodation at Weltevrede, we viewed 100’s of Larklike Buntings drinking at the birdbath. After a quick swim we did a late afternoon walk to view rock paintings. Highlights were Leopard spoor in our path in a sandy riverbed, and sweeping views of the Namib plains and mountains with oceans of silvery grass blowing in the wind under a magnificent sunset.

Bird highlights for the day included African Pygmy Falcon in the morning, diminutive in contrast with the large Secretarybird that we saw shortly thereafter. We had excellent views of Rüppell’s Korhaan in late afternoon slowly crossing the road in front of us.

12 March 2006

Day 3

This morning was the classic Namib Desert experience. We made an early start to watch the sunset over the dunes, before heading closer to explore the red sands. It really is truly spectacular to be surrounded by the vast imposing red dunes, and we pottered around on the dunes, immersing ourselves in the natural history of the area. We had great views of Dune Larks (the only bird fully endemic to Namibia, although there are many other near-endemics that extend marginally into Angola) scurrying among the lower, grassier sections of the dunes ­ and then found a nest with two chicks at the base of a clump of the endemic Namib Dune Grass, Stipagrostis salbucola (which only grows on the red sands). Here too we found specially-adapted tenebrionid beetles, the sandy burrows of Grant’s Golden Mole, a subterranean “swimmer” through the soft Namib sands, and a myriad of tracks from gerbils and lizards. 

We enjoyed dramatic views of Gemsbok (or Southern Oryx, which is easier on the throat to pronounce! The “G” is similar to the “ch” in loch) and Ostrich surrounded by the red dunes. We had a picnic breakfast at the base of a big dune that we then climbed (or spectacularly fell off, Mark...). 

We then drove northwards through the Namib Desert plains to Walvis Bay. The highlights of this drive included paddling in the Kuiseb River  (a rare event since it only flows a few days a year, if at all), seeing the plains in peak of their greenery (normally desolate Namib plains were covered in Bushman Grass) and seeing endemic Gray’s Lark. The desert scenery, with distant arid mountains, was very striking. 

In the late afternoon, we explored the mudflats and saltpans at Walvis Bay, among the 1000s of migrant waders. The cold Benguela current surging up the Namibian coast results in a rich upwelling system with a profusion of marine life and endemic species. Highlights included Bar-tailed Godwit and the near-endemic Damara Tern just before sunset.

13 March 2006

Day 4

We drove northwards to Swakopmund, stopping along the way to see breeding Cape and Crowned Cormorants on Bird Island. Reptile enthusiast Tommy took us on a two and a half hour trip across the Namib dunes in search of the reptiles. Highlights included dune-diving lizards, side-winding adders, a web-footed gecko and Namaqua chameleon. Skilful dune driving and dramatic scenery were also highlights.

We organised lunch at the German bakery, and then headed to the Spitzkoppe. These huge and scenic volcanic inselbergs are the best site for one of Namibia’s trickiest endemics, Herero Chat, which we had scoped after a very dedicated search! We also saw the Swallow-tailed Bee-eater, Namaqua Dove and Mountain Chat.

We drove through Usakos where we bought biltong, a traditional Southern African delicacy, and then headed to Karibib where we met up with Deirdre, and continued to Erongo Wilderness Lodge. Erongo Wilderness Lodge is set in truly spectacular surrounding and is one of my favourite in Africa. Imposing granite whalebacks surround the entire area, and each luxury tented suite is set privately among the boulders. Birds abounded in camp, including White-tailed Shrike. It was the perfect setting for gin and tonics - sitting among the red rocks, with baboons barking and all lit by a spectacular sunset.

14 March 2006

Day 5

We made a pre-dawn start in search for another elusive endemic, Hartlaub’s Francolin. We first encountered a group of three Freckled Nightjars, their cryptic plumage blending almost perfectly with the splendid granite rocks. While scanning for Hartlaub’s Francolin, we were entertained by the antics of cliff-climbing Chacma Baboons. Other interesting mammals included Rock Hyrax, and a rock-dwelling antelope, the Klipspringer. It was becoming very frustrating to only hear the francolins calling, but then Deirdre spotted a male and female Hartlaub’s Francolin duetting atop a rounded boulder! After watching them in the telescope, we then trained the scope on an Amethyst Starling and were dazzled by its shimmering coppery violet sheen. African Grey Hornbills and Rockrunner were other highlights. 

We then settled in to an extended and relaxed morning breakfast. Speckled Pigeon, Great Sparrow, and Black-throated Canary were all present at the nearby birdbath. We had close views of the curious Dassie Rat, the only member of its unique rodent family, and the brightly coloured Namibian Rock Agamas. Rosy-faced Lovebirds and provided an early morning splash of colour. The charismatic and endemic White-tailed Shrikes were seen well. 

We had a relaxed day, watching the water baths where we saw both Black-faced and Violet-eared Waxbills, and strolling around near the lodge where we saw Pale-winged and Cape Glossy Starlings, and Grey Go-away Birds. Some of us went on a drive to spectacular Bushman paintings and learnt about indigenous plant uses. Highlights included Terminalia prunoides, a beautiful tree that was conspicuous during the rest of the trip.

At night, we found the dorso-ventrally flattened Marbled Rubber Frogs, especially adapted for creeping into rocks crevices during the harsh heat of the day. The Cream-striped Owl, a type of moth, was very keen on our wine at dinner! The sounds of Rock Hyraxes lulled us to sleep. 

15 March 2006

Day 6

After a relaxed breakfast and some birding, with highlights being extremely close views of Rosy-faced Lovebird, we drove out of Erongo Wilderness Lodge and saw one of Africa’s smallest antelopes, the Damara Dik-dik, superbly concealed under an acacia tree. Arriving at the town of Omaruru, we did the essential curio buying at Tikolosh carving shop, well known for its particularly imaginative mopane root carvings. We drove through to Uis for lunch at Vicky’s Coffee Shop, where a member of staff was pointlessly watering the gravel as if it were grass! Insect highlights were Armoured Ground-Crickets and Common Diadem butterflies. Our next destination was the Brandberg White Lady Lodge, situated below Namibia’s tallest mountain. After a much-needed swim, we hopped into an open-top 4x4 and went on one of the most spectacular scenic drives of the trip (through the rocky Damaraland semi-desert basked in red evening light, in and out of dry riverbeds dry riverbeds, with distant purple mountains all around). Bird highlights were Burchell’s Coursers running across gravel plains and Pearl-spotted Owlet whistled up in some riverine trees.

We also saw a Black-backed Jackal. After the windswept drive back, we enjoyed sipping a G&T and a hearty meal at the lodge. Typical and worth mentioning in Damaraland are the scattered cattle and goat donkey pens among colorful huts made of a patchwork of metal plates, radiator, wood, and other materials.

16 March 2006

Day 7

We had a late breakfast and handled the rare Anchieta’s Dwarf Python in the lodge’s garden ­ after it had been found nearby the previous day. We then drove to the open desert plains below the towering Brandberg. There we found one of Namibia’s newly recognised endemics, the Benguela Longbilled Lark. Several individuals treated us with fantastic views of their aerial display. Mark spotted a Ludwig’s Bustard strutting along in close proximity to a Northern Black Korhaan and a Rüppell’s Korhaan.

We then transferred to a four-wheel drive vehicle to continue our search for the desert elephants. We managed to find a bull elephant in the golden grass, thanks to our local herdsmen guide’s eagle eye! Bird highlights were 250 Abdim’s Storks clustered around a water pool, and good views of Fawn-coloured Lark and Cape Penduline-Tit. We stopped for lunch at Khorixas, where we cooled down with a footbath in the pool, and were entertained by bantam chickens running among our feet. Mark spotted a Shaft-tailed Whydah and earned his new title as the “whydah man”. We then proceeded to the Kamanjab shopping emporium where the tradition of savouring Magnum ice-creams imprinted upon us!

We continued north towards Hobatere Lodge through magnificent thunderstorms vistas with mushroom rain clouds. Closer looks at a gigantic Flap-necked Chameleon provided a break from the drive. On our way to Hobatere, we had splendid scoped views of a large group of Madagascar Bee-eaters. The late afternoon light emphasised the colours of more than 50 bee-eaters dust-bathing in the sand of the road and hawking insects in flight. Driving into Hobatere, we encountered Giraffe, Hartmann’s Mountain Zebra and Gemsbok. The day ended with one of the most fantastic sunsets of the trip and a fabulous meal.

17 March 2006

Day 8

After waking up to the roaring of lions and whistles of Pearl-spotted Owlet, we did an early morning drive, but it started raining so we returned quickly. Still, highlights included Dusky Lark (which we were able to directly compare with Ground-scraper Thrush), Secretarybird, Ovambo Sparrowhawk, and lots of Gemsbok, Springbok, and Hartmann’s Mountain Zebra.

Our mid-morning breakfast was great for birds: Bare-cheeked Babblers spotted by Mark, Damara Hornbills on the muesli, Meves’s Starlings all around. After breakfast, our late morning drive and walk included highlights such as Violet Woodhoopoes, Shrikra with the red eyes, and four species of “Blue” butterflies.

A short salad and sandwich lunch filled us for a relaxed afternoon. The swimming pool and surrounding viewing deck overlooked the massive grass covered valley with fantastic species of game. What a great way to spend the afternoon! Late afternoon, Steve Braine banded a Dusky Lark as part of an ongoing research project. During our night drive, Callan caught a Rufous-cheeked Nightjar that was settled in the road and we all had close views in the hand of its distinctive features. 

18 March 2006

Day 9

We started off with a super breakfast with mango and poached eggs, followed by an early morning walk with a local guide Martin. It was fantastic to experience the bush on foot where we could see dropping and tracks closely, and birding highlights were Pearl-spotted Owlet, African Scops-Owl, and Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl in quick succession. The final climax of the walk must go to Rüppell’s Parrot, our final Namibian endemic. We all agreed that it was a pity that Gerry, who first conceptualised this trip but had to cancel at the last minute, couldn’t be here for this.

We left Hobatere in the late morning and took small back roads to arrive at Tandala Ridge Wildlife Reserve for late afternoon tea and light sandwiches. The panoramic view below the patio where we ate left us dazzled. We watched Tim Osborne, a Namibian bird-ringer, band three Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill chicks. We also saw Red Hartebeest.

After the adventurous drive through to Etosha (earlier rains had left the roads very muddy, nice views of African Harrier-Hawk here though), we were sure to position ourselves at the floodlit waterhole at Okaukeujo just after sunset just in time to see the Double-banded Sandgrouse come to drink. We also saw the rare and localised Black-faced Impala shortly after entering into the park. 

19 March 2006

Day 10

Our morning game drive was spectacular: the vast expanse of Etosha Pan filled with glittering water and vast groups of game were absorbing. We spend the next few hours watching the antics of baby Plains Zebras and Springbok. Bird highlights were Double-banded Courser, Crowned Lapwing and Capped Wheatear.

Before leaving for the Halali, we went for a short walk around Okaukeujo and Callan gave a crash course on the identification of swifts and swallows at the waterhole. We also had close views of Sociable Weavers in a huge apartment-like nest, with South African Ground Squirrels scurrying about underneath. We then headed to Halali where we saw a Kori Bustard, the world’s largest flying bird, a striking male Northern Black Korhaan very close to the road and Greater Kestrel. We arrived in Halali in the early afternoon and had a swim and spent a few hours relaxing in camp. 

20 March 2006

Day 11

We went on a pre-breakfast drive for an hour, past beautiful koppies. Louise spotted a camouflaged Bronze-winged Courser roosting on the rocky ground. After breakfast we located a cryptically concealed African Scops-Owl and walked to Moringa waterhole and where we met a profusion of wild flowers and butterflies. At the waterhole we saw a pair of Blacksmith Lapwings with their chicks, Red-billed Buffalo-Weaver, and a Bateleur rocked gently overhead.

We then drove through to Namutoni where a highlight included a group of three Cheetahs under a tree near the road. After a brief rest during the heat of the day, we drove to northwards to Fisher’s Pan, where we saw a selection of waders (Marsh and Wood Sandpipers) and a had a crash course in wader-identification! 

Mammals were excellent: we spotted two bull elephants sparring along the water’s edge, and further north we were treated to extended views of a Black Rhino - and then magnificent views of a pride of lions framed by a golden sunset over a water-filled Etosha pan. A pair of Tawny Eagles mated atop a tree in the golden light but our views were cut short was we had to rush back for the gate closing time. We did however manage to make a brief stop for a Spotted Hyaena sloping against the grassy plains in the failing light.

21 March 2006

Day 12

Our pre-breakfast game drive treated us with highlights including a pair of Blue Cranes and their youngsters, extended views of Giraffe, and Lesser Moorhen.

After breakfast, specials during our walk around camp included Icterine Warbler, Blue Waxbill and Chestnut-vented Tit-Babbler.

We then departed on the drive north into the more tropical, woodland areas of the Okavango River. Small tribal homesteads and large herds of Nguni cattle started to dot the landscape refreshing. Roy’s Camp was a refreshing break with swimming, cold drinks, and White Helmet-Shrike and Red-billed Hornbill. In the late afternoon we settled into the Sarasuga River Lodge on the back of the Okavango River where we had phenomenal views of Grey-headed Kingfisher. Blue-cheeked Bee-eaters flew overhead as we relaxed in the pool at the end of the day.

22 March 2006

Day 13

Despite the phenomenal dawn chorus of birdsong, our early morning birdwalk was washed by rain so we headed directly to the Okavango region. We took a short break in the moist woodland where a brief scan produced great views of the African Golden Oriole, more White Helmet-Shrikes, Black Cuckoo and Puffback.

Mid-afternoon was spent in Mahango Game Reserve. This must be one of Namibia’s best-kept secrets, and we had the entire reserve all to ourselves. Between bouts of torrential rain, we were treated to wonderful wildlife sightings. Habitat included dense woodlands along the broad Okavango floodplain. Game highlights included Hippos submerged in lily clad plains, large herds of impala huddled together in the rain, big grazing herds of Plains Zebra, Blue Wildebeest and Giraffe, and two Southern Reedbuck bounding through golden grass with water drops from their splashes sparkling in the sun, all with grey thunderclouds in the back.

However, the Mahango highlight was the herd of 15 Sable with calves that only narrowly out competed the Roan antelope standing in full view! We also saw the very shy Sitatunga at the edge of papyrus reedbeds.

Bird highlights were cartwheeling African Fish-eagles, a dazzling pair of unlikely looking Saddle-billed Storks (female’s pale eye and male’s drooping wattles clearly visible), a tree full of Spurwinged Goose, Senegal and Coppy-tailed Coucals, African Jacana, Goliath Heron, and close views of Little Bee-eaters, Long-tailed Lapwing, African Pygmy Goose, Rufous-naped Lark displaying from atop a bush and Bradfield’s Hornbill.

Border formalities into Botswana went smoothly and the rain cleared up for our boat ride to the isolated Xaro camp near Shakawe where we were to spend the night.

Warmly wrapped, our luggage and ourselves made the boat trip in about 20 minutes, with birding highlights including Blue-cheeked and White-fronted Bee-eaters, Pied Kingfisher, African Fish-Eagle and Goliath Heron. Xaro Lodge, secluded elegantly among beautiful riparian forest on the banks of the Okavango River, was the perfect setting to spend two days. Our luxury tents, each with their own ensuite bathrooms, overlooked the river (tucked under gnarled century-old Jackalberry, Wild Mangosteen and Sausage trees). Birds abounded in the grounds: White-browed Robin-Chats whistled from the thickets and Hartlaub’s Babblers hopped on the lawn. The open-air dinner was made ever the more perfect by the grunting of surrounding hippos.

23 March 2006

Day 14

A cacophony of birdsong woke us up for a promising early morning walk through the riparian forest with camp manager and owner, Donovan. A major excitement was a superb scope view of the ginger giant, Pel’s Fishing-Owl, perhaps Africa’s most desired owl. We observed a pair of these owls roasting in a large tree. Other highlights were Diederick Cuckoo, Woodland Kingfisher, Black-collared Barbet, Golden Weaver, a male Thick-billed Weaver building a nest, Yellow-breasted Apalis, White-fronted Bee-eater, and Crocodile.

We returned for a well-deserved breakfast before heading out on a boat trip in search of the elusive White-backed Night-Heron. We were eventually able to approach a pair of the night-herons as they roosted silently in a tree overhanging the water.

Other highlights were Malachite Kingfisher and African Pygmy Goose.  Returning from the boat trip, we enjoyed a light lunch, swim and relax in camp.

A distant storm made for a dramatic sunset over the Okavango River. Even the camp manager brought out his camera for this exceptional view.

24 March 2006

Day 15

Early morning downpours curtailed the morning walk, but we did have some conciliation in the form of Giant Kingfishers that perched nearby.

Our boat transfer back to Drotsky’s threatened to be damp (with the light rain), but conciliation was provided in form of an Osprey flying overhead and an African Marsh-Harrier quartering the reedbeds. Our walk in the riverine forest at Drotsky’s (among the best in Botswana with its huge Sausage Trees, intertwined with strangling figs and lianas) yielded White-browed Robin-Chat, Terrestrial Brownbul and African Paradise Flycatcher. We were very fortunate to obtain an unobstructed view of “Chobe” Bushbuck in the forest at Drotsky’s. 

Then we proceeded back into Namibia and did some afternoon birding at Mahango. Birding highlights were the pale and dark morph of Jacobin Cuckoo in one tree, Striped Kingfisher, Shaft-tailed Whydah on a termite mound, Crimson-breasted Shrike, Burchell’s Starling and Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove. We then checked into Popa Falls and did a late afternoon walk, which provided Little Sparrowhawk above our rustic huts, and exciting views of hippos yawning (showing the lower tusks) and demonstrating their flattened tail “paddling” scat. Our pre-ordered dinner arrived timelessly and we had an early night.

25 March 2006

Day 16

Today was mainly driving day, returning from the Okavango region. We made an early start to have a full breakfast in Rundu, at Ozzy’s Beerhouse, where we were confused by the advertisement on a nearby store: “Ice end bed for sale cash loan”. We proceeded southwards en route to the Waterberg stopping for a welcome break at Roy’s Camp where we enjoyed refreshments, swim and a group of Black-faced Babblers before proceeding south for ice creams at Otavi (Magnum ice creams had become a staple on this trip!) Close to the Waterberg, we stopped in a patch of thornveld where punchy late afternoon birding resulted in 30 species in 30 minutes ­ all from exactly the same spot! Scope views were obtained for most species. Colourful highlights were Swallow-tailed Bee-eater, Long-tailed Paradise Whydah, Shaft-tailed Whydah, Green-winged Pytilia, Great-spotted Cuckoo, Black-faced Waxbill, Brubru, Acacia Pied Barbet and Monteiro’s Hornbill.

Arriving in our spacious accommodation set in dense Waterberg woodlands, we were pleased to find small groups of Damara Dik-dik in the gardens. A genet dashed across the road on our evening drive to dinner.

26 March 2006

Day 17

We started this day with an early morning walk to breakfast. The variegated colours of light on the red sandstone cliffs of the Waterberg, catching the early morning light, provided a spectacular backdrop to our pre-breakfast walk. Highlights were Ruppell’s Parrot scoped, African Paradise Flycatcher, and a small group of curious Dwarf Mongoose. Breakfast was on the veranda, overlooked the canopy of the trees and the misty plains below. Perching prominently in the trees were a partially leucistic Cape Glossy Starling, Acacia Pied Barbet, a male Marico Sunbird, and a stunning group of Southern Masked Weavers in breeding plumage. 

While packing the car, a small group of Rosy-faced Lovebirds landed on the grass nearby while an African Hawk-Eagle circled overhead. It was with much regret that we had to curtail our morning birding and head southwards to Windhoek for our flight. Raptors on our drive south included a Yellow-billed Kite chasing a Rock Kestrel and a stunning adult Black-chested Snake-Eagle. We arrived at the airport in good time and enjoyed a coffee while going over our final birdlist

Trip report by Birding Africa tour leader Callan Cohen.

Many of the birding sites on this trip are described in detail in the Southern African Birdfinder which is widely available in South African bookshops and on the internet. (e.g., www.netbooks.co.za or www.wildsounds.co.uk). However you're always welcome to contact us if you're interested in a guided trip in this area.