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Trip Report: Malawi tour in October
2007
A trip with Birding Africa guided by
Michael Mills
Overview This was a two week tour in October
2007, tailored to sample the best of Malawi’s birds.
Highlights at Dzalanyama, a miombo-hotspot, included the
local Stierling’s Woodpecker, Little Spotted
Woodpecker, Red-capped Crombec, Yellow-bellied Hyliota, Bohm’s
Flycatcher, Souza’s Shrike, Orange-winged Pytilia, Black-eared
Seedeater, Boulder Chat, Miombo Rock Thrush, Thick-billed
Cuckoo, Scaly-throated Honeyguide, Whyte’s Barbet, Pale-billed
Hornbill, Green-backed Honeybird, Stripe-breasted Seedeater
and Anchieta’s Sunbird.
En route to the famed Nyika Plateau we stopped at several
localities, including South Viphya and Vwaza Marsh, notching
up Fischer’s Sparrow-Lark, Parasitic Weaver,
Ruwenzori Nightjar, Southern Citril, Bertram’s Weaver,
Southern Mountain Greenbul, Singing Cisticola, White-eyed
Slaty Flycatcher, White-winged Babbling Starling and
Chestnut-mantled Sparrow-Weaver.
Nyika offered superb grassland and forest birding, with the
most memorable species including Black-lored Cisticola,
Churring Cisticola, Mountain Marsh Widow, Hildebrandt’s
Francolin, Moustached Green Tinkerbird, Olive-flanked Robin-Chat,
Sharpe’s Greenbul, Fullebourn’s Boubou, Malawi
Batis, White-tailed Crested Flycatcher, Bar-tailed Trogon,
White-headed Sawwing, Ludwig’s Double-collared Sunbird,
Wattled Crane, Blue Swallow, White-chested Alethe, Sharpe’s
Akalat, Orange Ground-Thrush, Denham’s Bustard, Dusky
Turtle Dove, Yellow-browed Seedeater, Red-winged Francolin,
Chapin’s Apalis, Forest Double-collared Sunbird
and Brown Parisoma.
Our journey down to the southern highlands was interrupted
with stops in the Nkhata Bay area (Gunning’s
Akalat, Grey-olive Greenbul, Yellow Weaver, Pennant-winged
Nightjar) and at Liwonde National Park (Bohm’s
Bee-eater, Grey-headed Parrot, Lillian’s Lovebird, Southern
Brown-throated Weaver, Pel’s Fishing Owl, Brown-breasted
Barbet, Livingstone’s Flycatcher, Speckle-throated Woodpecker,
Racquet-tailed Roller, White-backed Night Heron, Collared
Palm Thrush, Dickinson’s Kestrel).
Zomba Plateau was notable for White-winged Apalis,
Red-faced Crimsonwing, Olive-headed Greenbul, Yellow-throated
Apalis, Olive Bush-Shrike, Green Twinspot, Red-throated Twinspot,
Livingstone’s Turaco and Pale Batis.
At Mount Thyolo we found Cholo Alethe, Green-headed
Oriole, Grey Cuckooshrike, Black-fronted Bush-Shrike and
Silvery-cheeked Hornbill.
To end with, a final mourning of birding around Lilongwe
produced Half-collared Kingfisher, Temminck’s
Courser and Caspian Plover.
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Detailed trip report
DAY 1: ARRIVE AND DRIVE TO DZALANYAMA
An early afternoon arrival at Kumuzu International Airport, Lilongwe,
gave us enough time to shop for supplies in town and head to Dzalanyama,
arriving at sunset. We settled into our comfortable forest lodge
for a 2-night stay, although the birds would have to wait for the
next morning.
DAY 2: DZALANYAMA FOREST RESERVE
Situated besides a forest stream and surrounded by Miombo woodland,
Dzalanyama Forest Lodge is a perfect base for exploring this area.
As we stepped out onto the veranda, the dawn calls of Schalow’s
Turaco could be heard nearby. The first two hours of sunlight were
particularly productive, and we found it hard to move at all. Eastern
Sawwing flitted overhead, Green-capped Eremomela called excitedly
from the treetops and Cabanis’s Bunting sang nearby. The river-side
trees were home to Little Spotted Woodpecker, and we soon spotted
also our first Stierling’s Woodpecker, Dzalanyama’s
number one specialty. Before brunch we managed to notch up also
Stierling’s Wren-Warbler, Rufous-bellied Tit, African Golden
Oriole, White-breasted Cuckooshrike, Miombo Bearded Scrub-Robin,
Red-capped Crombec, Yellow-bellied Hyliota, Bohm’s Flycatcher,
Souza’s Shrike, Orange-winged Pytilia and Black-eared Seedeater.
Most of the rest of the day was focussed on rocky areas. While searching
for our main target, Boulder Chat, we found Miombo Rock Thrush,
Striped Pipit and Lazy Cisticola. A Thick-billed Cuckoo put in a
brief appearance, a flock of Red-backed Mannikin was active in some
riverine thickets and we watched a Scaly-throated Honeyguide calling
from its canopy-perch. Eventually we found a pair of Boulder Chat,
agitated by the presence of an intruder from across the valley,
and a more sedate Whyte’s Barbet.
DAY 3: DZALANYAMA TO SOUTH VIPHYA
With a long drive ahead of us we had just a couple
of hours to explore the miombo woodlands once more. The highlight
of our 4-hour walk was a group of 5 Pale-billed Hornbill, with other
species including Green-backed Honeybird, Neddicky, Stripe-breasted
Seedeater, a stunning pair of Anchieta’s Sunbird and a confiding
Thick-billed Cuckoo. After breakfast we returned to Lilongwe, this
time heading north out of town. Roadside stops turned up Fischer’s
Sparrow-Lark, a healthy flock of Parasitic Weaver, European Honey
Buzzard, Miombo Blue-eared Starling and Little Sparrowhawk. Our
sunset arrival at Luwawa Forest Lodge was greeted by singing Ruwenzori
Nightjar, one male giving spectacular views in the spotlight.
DAY 4: SOUTH VIPHYA TO VWAZA MARSH GAME RESERVE
We awoke to strong, gusty wind and drizzle. Birding
was slow, but on a prolonged walk we manage to spot several local
specialities, including our first Southern Citril, Red-rumped Swallow,
Bertram’s Weaver, Brown-crowned Tchagra, Southern Mountain
Greenbul, Broad-tailed Warbler, African Yellow Warbler, Singing
Cisticola, White-eyed Slaty Flycatcher and Bronzy Sunbird, and the
only Olive Woodpecker of the trip. From South Viphya we continued
north and then west to Vwaza Marsh Game Reserve. We quickly settled
into our spectacular lodge-accommodation, spotting Collared Pratincole
on the adjacent Lake Kazuni before heading off to explore the surrounding
woodlands. We stopped near a large heard of buffalo to admire both
them and their flock of Yellow-billed Oxpecker. This turned out
to be a mistake, as the rest of the afternoon was focussed on squashing
tsetse flies in our vehicle. Our attempts to reach the north of
the park failed due to a burned bridge, but the flies and a 2+ metre
black mamba that reared up at our vehicle ensured that the drive
was not uneventful.
DAY 5: VWAZA MARSH TO NYIKA NATIONAL PARK
A super-early start found us at the northern Kawiya entrance of
Vwaza Marsh shortly after sunrise. It was rather quiet, so we decided
on a long walk through the miombo woodland. After some patience
and focus our persistence was rewarded, as we spotted a bird with
white flashes in the wing flying from the ground to its mid-storey
perch. White-winged Babbling Starling! For the next hour we managed
to follow a pair for superb repeated views, and I managed to record
both the contact call and song of this scarce species. Our attention
was diverted by our other target, the unobtrusive Chestnut-mantled
Sparrow-Weaver. Further searching revealed another pair of Babbling
Starlings and another party of Sparrow-Weavers before it was time
to head for the hills of Nyika. Our first stop on the plateau produced
Black-lored Cisticola, near Chowo forest we found a small group
of Scarce Swift and Baglafecht Weaver was spotted at the roadside.
Our arrival at Chelinda was greeted with the first rain storm of
the season, with drizzle continuing for most of the afternoon. However,
a short walk in some Haegenia forest and surrounding thicket did
turn up our first Churring Cisticola and striking Mountain Marsh
Widow, and our only Mountain Buzzard and Mountain Yellow Warbler.
DAYS 6-7: NYIKA NATIONAL PARK
With a long list of forest birds to be tracked down, there was no
time to be wasted and we found ourselves on the border of Zovo-Chipolo
forest shortly after sunrise, having seen en route Hildebrandt’s
Francolin feeding at the roadside. Here we spotted our first Moustached
Green Tinkerbird feeding at the forest edge, alongside Waller’s
Starling. It was windy, making forest birding difficult, but we
managed to spot White-starred Robin in the under-storey. Olive-flanked
Robin-Chat also obliged with good views, but White-chested Alethe
remained no more than a whistle. In the mid-storey we found our
first Sharpe’s Greenbul, Fullebourn’s Boubou, Malawi
Batis, Mountain Thrush and White-tailed Crested Flycatcher, with
a splash of colour added by a pair of very co-operative Bar-tailed
Trogon. And at last we put a face to the loud, explosive call of
Evergreen Forest Warbler. Back at the forest edge we found Angola
Swallow and White-headed Sawwing before heading for the Zambian
rest house where a male Ludwig’s Double-collared Sunbird was
feeding on some flowering plants. The rest of the day was spent
scouring the grasslands in the vicinity of Chelinda. The two undoubted
highlights were a lone Wattled Crane, watched at length feeding
and preening, and several shimmering Blue Swallow. Yellow-crowned
Canary, Augur Buzzard, Rufous-naped Lark, African Pipit (very dark
subspecies) and Banded Martin were also added to the list.
On our second morning we made an even earlier start for the Manyanjere
forest in Zambia, stopping to pick up our guide at the Zambian guest
house, where Yellow-bellied Waxbill was seen. We followed the track
to the forest edge and fought our way through the forest wall to
its damp interior. Once inside, moving was easier and we soon located
a striking White-chested Alethe, which gave superb views. Brief
views of Sharpe’s Akalat frustrated at first, but with much
patience we were all rewarded with excellent views of this scarce
species, which sang beautifully for the tape recorder. On our way
back to the forest edge we craned our necks to see Brown-headed
Apalis in the canopy and in the mid-storey spotted a singing Orange
Ground-Thrush. Once in the open grasslands we found a lone Denham’s
Bustard and Wailing Cisticola. Windy conditions made the more open
areas rather unproductive, but during the rest of the day at Chelinda
we enjoyed views of Dusky Turtle Dove, the very local Yellow-browed
Seedeater and a pair of curious Red-winged Francolin. Most of the
group had a miserable evening, as South Africa defeated England
in the Rugby World Cup final.
DAY 8: TO NKHATA BAY
A slightly later start saw us in very windy conditions at Chowo
Rocks. Attempts to find sunbirds were frustrated by the poor weather
conditions, but we did flush a covey of Shelley’s Francolin.
In the forest itself Chapin’s Apalis provided further frustration,
calling unseen from the canopy, although our first Forest Double-collared
Sunbird and African Hill Babbler were welcome. From here we continued
towards the edge of the plateau, stopping at a large patch of Acacia
abyssinica. Here, a calling Chapin’s Apalis finally co-operated
and allowed us to snatch a last-minute scope view, Green-headed
Sunbird was watched feeding in a flowering Erythrina, White-tailed
Blue Flycatcher flitted in the treetops and a pair of Brown Parisoma
was spotted feeding discreetly in the crown of a tree.
We arrived in the Nkhata Bay area in the mid-afternoon. A quick
stop at Kalwe forest produced little, so we decided to continue
to our accommodation. In the gardens we spotted an angry African
Barred Owlet, a whining quartet of Grey-olive Greenbul, Black-throated
Wattle-eye and a healthy breeding colony of Yellow Weaver. After
dark a nearby outing produced a spectacular male Pennant-winged
Nightjar. Wow!
DAY 9: TO LIWONDE NATIONAL PARK
An early morning wrestle with a flat tyre delayed our start somewhat,
although it was only 05h45 by the time we reached Mkuwadzi forest.
We soon heard the calls of Gunning’s Akalat and quietly stalked
after it. The first bird was not particularly co-operative, allowing
only brief views, but a second bird found shortly afterwards was
far more confiding and we all enjoyed superb views. The forest was
pretty quiet and produced little else besides Eastern Nicator and
Olive Sunbird, so we returned to our accommodation for breakfast
before continuing southwards along the shores of Lake Malawi to
Liwonde National Park, where we arrived at Mvuu Camp shortly before
sunset.
DAY 10: LIWONDE NATIONAL PARK
First light saw us gather on the banks of the Shire River. Bright
Southern Brown-throated Weaver hopped in the thickets, joined by
Collared Palm Thrush, while striking Bohm’s Bee-eater darted
from their perch in pursuit of breakfast. The highlight was a quartet
of Grey-headed Parrot that perched in the treetops across the river
before flying back across the river, straight at us, passing low
over our heads and disappearing into the surrounding Mopane woodlands.
Numerous waterbirds commuted up and down the river, including a
flock of Gull-billed Tern. The remainder of the day, bar a prolonged
siesta around midday, was spent scouring the surrounding woodlands
where highlights included hundreds of vivid Lillian’s Lovebird,
a few shrieking Brown-headed Parrot and a party of Jameson’s
Firefinch.
DAY 11: LIWONDE TO ZOMBA
Our final mourning at Liwonde was kicked off with a super productive
walk. On the outskirts of camp we found our first Livingstone’s
Flycatcher twittering excitedly, followed shortly by African Wood
Owl and two roosting White-backed Night Heron. After this we popped
across the river to find Brown-breasted Barbet, Purple-crested Turaco
and a calling juvenile Pel’s Fishing Owl, all before breakfast.
After breakfast we quickly located a trio of Speckle-throated Woodpecker
and a confiding Dickinson’s Kestrel perched in some tall Mopane
woodland before packing and heading for Zomba. The drive out produced
the only Western Banded Snake Eagle and Long-toed Lapwing of the
trip.
At Zomba the cool mountain air meant activity was high even in the
middle of the day and a short stop just above town was rewarded
with Square-tailed Drongo, Red-throated Twinspot, our first Placid
Greenbul and a pair of very elegant and localised White-winged Apalis.
A late afternoon walk on the plateau itself produced our first Livingstone’s
Turaco, angry-eyed Yellow-throated Apalis, several Black-headed
Apalis, a pair of noisy Bertram’s Weaver and Yellow-throated
Woodland Warbler.
DAY 12: ZOMBA TO MOUNT THYOLO
Our early morning outing started slowly as we unsuccessfully chased
after calling finches. Eventually Red-faced Crimsonwing relented
as we enjoyed great views of a female perched low in a thicket;
Green Twinspot was a little easier, although only a twinspot-less
juvenile showed well. Other highlights included Olive-headed Greenbul
and Olive Bush-Shrike, before we returned for breakfast where we
watched Pale Batis from the dining balcony. Back on the lower slopes
of the mountain we found a female Green Twinspot feeding at the
roadside and a distant flock of Magpie Mannnikin, before continuing
to Blantyre and on to Mount Thyolo where an almighty storm greeted
our arrival. When the rain abated we headed up the mountain where
a forest patch produced a stunning Green-headed Oriole perched atop
a tall forest tree in a bright shaft of sunshine, chattering Yellow-streaked
Greenbul, a party of four Green Twinspot feeding at the edge of
the forest (our third sighting of the day!), including a red-faced
male, and a displaying African Broadbill in the fading light.
DAY 13: MOUNT THYOLO
We awoke to a misty, drizzly morning and our pre-breakfast outing
proved damp and unproductive, so we returned for an early breakfast
that included several Silvery-cheeked Hornbill in the garden. Fortunately
the rain abated and we were soon back up the mountain watching White-eared
Barbet and Grey Cuckooshrike in a large foraging flock. A Cholo
Alethe called nearby, so we dropped the flock and rapidly stalked
in the directions of the whistles. A short bout of playback of its
own call quickly brought in the culprit, and we enjoyed fabulous
views as it perched in the mid-storey, giving repeated back, front
and side views before disappearing back into the foliage. Once we’d
recovered from the latest highlight we caught up with our foraging
flock, finding also White-winged Apalis, Green-headed Oriole and
a female Black-fronted Bush-Shrike. At the forest edge a Black Sparrowhawk
unsuccessfully pursued a Red-necked Spurfowl across the tea and
we found a male Black-fronted Bush-Shrike calling from its partly-hidden
perch. But the rain and mist soon set in again and put an end to
the day’s birding, before midday.
DAY 14: THYOLO TO LILONGWE
By the next morning conditions hadn’t changed and the mountain
was blanketed in a dense layer of mist and drizzle, so we decided
to cut our losses and start a leisurely drive to Lilongwe. The most
productive stop was near Dedza, shortly after lunch, where a dambo
was home to at least 20 Locust-finch and several flocks of Orange-breasted
Waxbill. A short while later we found several Chestnut-backed Sparrow-Lark
in a recently-burned field. At Lilongwe a river-side outing produced
a trio of African Black Duck. In the evening we were joined for
a relaxed dinner by Ken Longden, a local bird expert.
DAY 15: LILONGWE AND DEPART
Our final morning in Malawi proved very rewarding, thanks to the
assistance of Ken. The Lilongwe Nature Sanctuary turned up a stunning
Half-collared Kingfisher and a flock of dozen Magpie Mannikin feeding
in a stand of bamboo. To end with, on a nearby farm we found three
Caspian Plover and a party of 11 Temminck’s Courser that allowed
us to approach within 15 metres!
Besides all the fantastic birds, Malawi produced a number of other
memorable wildlife sightings. Perhaps the best mammal sightings
were of a pair of African Palm Civet chasing each other through
the tangles of Mkuwadzi Forest and a large male Bushpig in Lilongwe
Nature Sanctuary! Other noteworthy mammals included Elephant, Greater
Kudu, Buffalo and Banded Mongoose at Vwaza Marsh, Eland, Roan, Side-striped
Jackal, Spotted Hyaena and Tanzania Mountain Squirrel at Nyika,
majestic Sable at Liwonde, and Mutable Sun Squirrel, Blue Duiker
and Blue Monkey at Mount Thyolo. Other highlights included the biggest
Black Mamba I have ever seen.
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