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Itinerary: This was a 2-day tour, starting and ending in Cape
Town. We visited key birding sites
in the Western Cape: Blaauwberg, Darling, Ceres, Kouebokkeveld and
the Tankwa (Tanqua) Karoo.
Detailed Trip report:
20 September 2010 Blaauwberg, Darling, Ceres
& Kouebokkeveld
I met Stephan and Otji at Rondevlei Nature Reserve at
6h45 so we could avoid the city's traffic and get going early. Thus
by 7h45 we were already along the Blaauwberg coastline enjoying
the classic view of Table Mountain across Table Bay in the early
morning sunshine.
Here we found several Crowned Cormorants and
African Black Oystercatcher on the coastal rocks. We found
White-fronted Plovers along the high tide mark and then crossed
over the road into the coastal thicket and picked up some of the
bush birds; Bokmakierie, Cape Robin-chat, Karoo
Scrub-robin and Grey-backed Cisticola. There was a cold
front approaching the Cape from the north west, and a light rain
broke through every now and then. We headed up the coast, turning
into the Darling road to see if we could find Southern Black
Korhaan. We heard two males calling almost as soon as we arrived,
but Stephan only managed a glimpse of one some way off before it
disappeared into the bush. A Black Harrier made a far off
fly past, whilst Pied Starling, Cape Canary, Greater Striped
Swallow and Cape Sparrow abounded. The cold weather kept
many of the birds in cover as we travelled down the road, picking
up Red and Yellow Bishop amongst a breeding colony
of Cape Weavers.
Cape Teal, Egyptian and Spur-winged
Geese were in a roadside dam, as Blacksmith Lapwing and
Three-banded Plover skirted the waters edge. We found a calling
Lesser Honeyguide, but the bird called from the back of trees
beyond our reach and after a while the rain drove us into the car
and along the road. Despite the rain, the hill sides that we passed
near Darling were coloured purple with spring flowers. After picking
up Cape Longclaw near the roadside, we turned inland, travelling
through the town of Malmesbury, over the beautiful Seweweeks Poort
and on to the Mitchell’s Mountain Pass. Here we stopped at a couple
of sites to take in the scenery and have a look around. Booted
Eagle turned up and then Streaky-headed Seed-eater amongst
the boulders of a lookout over the waterfall in the pass. Further
on in the town of Ceres we picked up some lunch and used our last
chance of getting fuel and other supplies before entering the Tanqua.
We had lunch over looking Ceres from the Gydo Pass and
then reached the rocky plateau of the Kouebokkeveld. Here at a productive
stakeout en route we found Protea Canary amongst a stand
of old Proteas. In this area we also found our first Mountain
Wheatear and a number of Cape Sugarbirds. We pressed
on, leaving the small farms behind and entered the area of rock
plateaus that have shaped into strange features by the elements.
Stopping at a location we travelled in by foot to an overhang with
several paintings of San rock art. These paintings depicted various
scenes of San life. Here in a rock crack we flushed an owl, getting
only brief views of the bird. We travelled further up the crack
and got a slightly better view of the bird, which we made out to
be a Barn Owl. This was confirmed by the feathers found amongst
the pellets lying along the length of the rock crack. With daylight
coming to a close we headed to Klein Cedarberg, our guest house
for the night, but not before picking up Rock Martin and
Cape Rock Thrush amongst the boulders around us.
At the guest house we found Familiar Chat amongst
the buildings and Blacksmith Lapwing and Three-banded
Plover at the water pond. Brown-throated and Rock
Martins mixed with a lone White-throated Swallow as Cape
Weaver arrived to drink before nightfall. After a great supper
we had a short drive, finding Smith’s Red Rock Rabbit and
a Spotted Eagle Owl before turning in for the night.
21 September 2010 Kouebokkeveld, Tanqua Karoo,
Cape Town
During the night a cold front blew in over the Cape
and the next morning a cold wind was blowing from the North. We
set off at 7h45 and soon found a female Southern Black Korhaan
in the road. We travelled over the mountain range and stopped for
breakfast near the rock walls of Peerboomskloof. Here we tried for
Cinnamon-breasted Warbler and although we heard the bird
it didn’t show against the cliffs. We had more luck however with
Fairy Warbler and Layard’s Titbabbler before
setting off on to the dry lowlands of the Tanqua.
Before long we had picked up a pair of Karoo Korhaan
and a Karoo Chat. Pale Chanting Goshawk appeared and
we found Red-capped Larks at leaking water pipes. Unfortunately
the Tanqua roads lived up to their tough reputation and we had a
flat tyre; this didn’t stop us for long and we picked up Karoo
Chat whilst changing it! Off again and we entered a dry river
bed to find Dusky Sunbird on a flowering bush, followed by
Namaqua Warbler that responded nicely amongst the thick riverine
vegetation.
Some ways on Large-billed Lark appeared and then
a pair of Spike-heeled Lark amongst dry grass clumps. By
this stage the wind had picked up and unbelievably it started to
rain a very rare event in this otherwise arid landscape. We decided
to head back toward Ceres and found a Ludwig’s Bustard that
flew over and then conveniently landed within scope distance. We
were just celebrating this when the road decided to claim our spare
tyre that sprang a serious leak. This meant a walk to a local farm
house to get help; where I was greeted by 20 mourners as the grandmother
at the farm house had just passed away! As it turned out their phone
line was also down, which necessitated a trip to another local farm
where cell phone reception was reputably to be had whilst standing
on a rock behind the homestead. I managed to get a lift there and
eventually found the “rock” which turned out to be the size of a
half brick. Lo and behold however, standing on the “rock” one could
get cell phone reception step off the rock and one got nothing!
Talk about some local knowledge! With reception we soon had a breakdown
truck bring a spare tyre and we thus made it back to the town of
Ceres by nightfall.
Our bad luck with the tyre unfortunately cut short our
birding, but not before we had a pair of Karoo Korhaans display
right next to the car while we waited for our spare tyre to arrive.
Birding Africa Trip Report by
Tour Leader Dalton
Gibbs .
Many of the birding sites on this trip are described in detail in
the Southern African
Birdfinder which is widely available in South African bookshops
and on the internet. (e.g., www.netbooks.co.za
or www.wildsounds.co.uk). However
you're always welcome to contact
us if you're interested in a guided trip in this area.
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