Participants:
Tony Dowd, Andrew Self, Heather Howell, Cynthia Garb, Dorothy Gutter,
Colin Berrisford Tour leader: Michael Mills
This 12-day, best-value trip was designed to
take in the finest of southern Uganda – Shoebill at Mabamba Swamp,
and the endemic-filled Albertine Rift, best accessed at Bwindi Impenetrable
National Park. We visited also Kibale and Queen Elizabeth National Parks,
which boosted out total trip list to over 400 species. Highlights from
this trip included African Grey Parrot, Shoebill, Red-chested Owlet, Papyrus
Gonolek, Bar-tailed Trogon, Neumann’s Short-tailed Warbler, Regal
Sunbird, Grauer’s Rush Warbler, Grauer’s Warbler, Handsome
Francolin… and, of course, some of our closest relatives, Chimpanzee
and Mountain Gorilla.
Day 1: Arrival
in Entebbe
In the late afternoon, a group of excited birders gathered in Entebbe.
With just an hour of light to spare, everyone was keen for their Ugandan
birding introduction, and Entebbe did not disappoint. We quickly racked
up 40 species. Top contenders for bird of the day included the colossal
Black-and-white Casqued Hornbill, a sleek Grey Kestrel and sharp Black-headed
Gonolek, but first prise went to a noisy African Grey Parrot that peered
down at us from its canopy perch. Also worthy of mention were Broad-billed
Roller, Pink-backed Pelican, Slender-billed Weaver, Grey Woodpecker, Angola
Swallow, Winding Cisticola, Black-and-white Shrike Flycatcher and Splendid
and Rueppell’s Long-tailed Starlings. As the sun set over Lake Victoria
we ambled back to our hotel.
Day 2:
Mabamba Swamp to Fort Portal
With the aim of having Uganda’s most iconic bird under our belt
by midday, we wasted no time in heading for Mabamba Swamp. While we waited
for our canoes to be organised, we watched colourful Blue-breasted Bee-eaters
and Red-chested Sunbirds, and less flashy Moustached Grass-Warbler and
Swamp Flycatcher. Finally we were ready to leave, and we forced our way
down a shallow, choked channel towards the main swamp. African and Eurasian
Marsh Harriers quartered nearby, allowing for good comparisons. Blue-headed
Coucal sat heavily upon papyrus heads, catching the first rays of sun,
occasionally joined by the semi-automatic rifle cries of Carruther’s
Cisticola. Other inhabitants of the shore-side vegetation were several
weaver species, including Northern Brown-throated, Black-headed/Yellow-backed,
Slender-billed, and the biggest surprise of the morning, Weyns’s.
The latter species was breeding in some of the swamps – rather unexpected,
since no nest of the species has ever been found! But the main quarry
was nowhere to be found. We distracted ourselves with Long-toed Lapwing,
Common Snipe and Fulvous Whistling Duck, but our hopes were slowly fading
as we turned back and started nearing the exit channel. Then, suddenly
we were upon it, a large, grey mass amidst the tall grass. Shoebill! It
paused for about 30 seconds, before deciding it had seen enough and slowly
heaved its bulky body into the thermals, leisurely winding its way upwards.
With the day rescued, we happily headed for Kampala,
and onwards to Fort Portal. With a longish drive ahead we only made occasional
stops for conspicuous roadside birds - Double-toothed Barbet, Bare-faced
Go-away-bird and, in the late afternoon, Great Blue Turaco. While observing
these spectacular birds, we notched up several other species, including
Grey-throated, Yellow-spotted and Hairy-breasted Barbets and Narrow-tailed
Starling.
Day 3: Kibale
National Park
Kibale is perhaps most famous for its impressive primate densities and
diversity. However, even the most dedicated birder will be impressed by
the quality and diversity of birds at this site. Kibale, unlike many other
forest sites, provides access to the forest via wide roads, which allows
uninterrupted views into the forest canopy.
In the morning we headed for the higher-altitude section
of Kibale, where we spent four very productive hours birding along the
roadside. Black-billed Weaver, Chubb’s Cisticola and White-chinned
Prinia skulked in the rank road-side tangles. Tiny Sunbird and Masked
Apalis were more conspicuous, flaunting their bright colours. Scanning
the larger trees we spotted several Speckled Tinkerbirds, a pair of striking
Red-headed Malimbe, Dusky Tit, White-breasted and Grey-headed Negrofinches,
Little and Cameroon Sombre Greenbuls, Buff-throated Apalis, Petit’s
Cuckooshrike, and the highlight, a stunning pair of Black Bee-eaters.
Joyful Greenbul flashed past, while overhead we were impressed by the
numbers of Sabine’s Spinetail, accompanied by the odd White-headed
Sawwing. At a small stream a pair of Cassin’s Flycatcher hunted
insects low over the water. Mammal highlights included the localised Central
African Red Colobus and Red-tailed and Blue Monkeys.
At midday we made for our next hotel, this time set
on the rim of a picturesque crater lake near the Kibale forest border.
While having lunch we watched Palm-nut Vulture soaring nearby, and African
Blue Flycatcher and Brown-throated Wattle-eye entertained us in the gardens.
In the afternoon we moved lower in altitude, but still made the most of
roadside birding. Fruigivores were in abundance and we quickly notched
up Yellow-billed Barbet, Yellow-throated Tinkerbird, Black-billed Turaco,
Yellow-whiskered, Honeyguide and Slender-billed Greenbuls. A large group
of Scarce Swifts passed overhead. The highlight of the afternoon was when
we successfully tracked down to male Chimpanzees feeding in the crown
of an emergent tree, and after dark found Africa’s smallest primate
Demidoff’s Galago.
Day 4: Kibale
National Park to Queen Elizabeth
Woken by the loud cackling of a pair of Giant Kingfishers outside our
bungalows ensured no-one overslept this morning. Soon we were back in
dark green of Kibale, watching a group of Crested Guineafowl cross the
road. A pair of Brown Illadopsis took some time to coax into view, but
eventually everyone obtained good-ish views. Grey-throated Tit-Flycatcher
proved a little easier. Soon to follow was a much-admired Red-chested
Owlet, which attracted the attention of many birds, including Pink-footed
Puffback and a pair of scarce Yellow-mantled Weaver. This was followed
by a succession of bright beauties: Narina Trogon, Superb Sunbird, Blue-throated
Roller and Chestnut Wattle-eye. After some concentrated searching, a pair
of Afep Pigeon were spotted in the canopy. Honeyguides seemed to be particularly
active this morning, with Willcock’s and Thick-billed Honeyguides
and Cassin’s Honeybird being seen.
Eventually the activity started to slow, and we decided
to make our way to Queen Elizabeth National Park, but not before pausing
to watch a party of Grey-cheeked Mangabey crossing a small forest stream.
A lunch stop en route produced a popular party of Piapiacs, following
around a heard of impressive Ankole Long-horned Cattle. Arriving at Queen
Elizabeth, some decided to take the rest of the afternoon off to put their
feet up, which others opted for a casual camp stroll that produced Yellow-fronted
Tinkerbird, Buff-bellied and Grey-capped Warblers, White-browed Robin-Chat
and numerous waterbirds, including the only Saddle-billed Stork of the
trip. Perhaps most popular finding, however, was a lone Giant Forest Hog,
feeding on the shores of the Kazinga Channel.
Day 5: Queen
Elizabeth to Bwindi Impenetrable National Park
We set off just after daybreak, the deep grunts of a Verreaux’s
Eagle Owl sending us on our way. Soon we spotted one atop a large Acacia
tree, batting its pink eyelids in our direction. Clumps of Euphorbias
revealed noisy groups of Black-lored Babbler and a pair of Nubian Woodpecker,
whereas Red-necked Spurfowl scurried for cover as we approached. The open
grasslands were alive with activity. Busy flocks of Fawn-breasted Waxbill
flushed from the roadside, joined by smaller flocks of Compact Weaver
and the odd Sooty Chat. Broad-tailed Warblers displayed, showing that
their name was well deserved, and a single Black Coucal sat sunning itself
in the distance. Pallid and Montagu’s Harrier scoured the grassland
for their quarry, as a shy Black-bellied Bustard did its best not to be
spotted. Much of the grassland had been burned, proving excellent habitat
for Wattled and Senegal Lapwings, Caspian Plover, White-tailed Lark and
Temminck’s Courser.
Before heading for Bwindi there was one last important
stop to make – for Papyrus Gonolek. A White-winged Swamp-Warbler
called tantalisingly from the overgrown swamp as we waited for our quarry
to show itself. After some fleeting glimpses, a pair finally popped out
onto a large dead tree, ruining their reputation as master skulking with
unobstructed scope views for the whole group!
Our job done, we continued southwards through Ishasha,
pausing only for a picnic lunch, of, among other things, Trilling Cisticola
and Black-headed Batis. We arrived at Buhoma and settled into our rustic
accommodation before rounding the day off with a nearby stroll. While
watching both Luehder’s and Grey-green/Bocage’s Bush-Shrike
at close range, an African Goshawk landed nearby. Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater
energetically chased dragonflies, while Baglafecht Weaver stripped palm
fronds for nesting material, a green Green Hylia attended its nest and
parties of White-eyed Slaty-Flycatcher sat on the rooftops. The highlight
was a pair of Mapgie Mannikins, affectionately allow-preening and sunbathing
in the last rays of light.
Day 6-10: Bwindi
Impenetrable National Park
Bwindi is famed among birders for its high number of Albertine Rift endemics
(AREs) – species found only in the mountains on the Uganda/Rwanda/DRC
border. Of course no visit to Bwindi is complete without a trek to see
Mountain Gorillas – even for the most dedicated of birders –
which meant that we had four full days to explore Bwindi’s birds.
Most of our time was spent in the mid-altitude forest
around Buhoma, where species diversity is higher. The main track through
the forest proved very productive as always. We worked hard on seeing
as many forest understorey skulkers as possible, notching up great views
of Mountain and Scaly-breasted Illadopsis, Cabanis’s Greenbul, Equatorial
Akalat, striking Red-throated Alethe (ARE), the near-invisible Blue-shouldered
Robin-Chat and the star of Bwindi, Neumann’s Short-tailed Warbler
(ARE). Rank secondary growth on the sides of the track were home to Black-faced
Rufous Warbler and Banded/Black-faced Prinia, almost as hard to see.
A feature of Buhoma is the visibility allowed into the
forest canopy, giving good views of species such as White-headed Woodhoopoe,
Western Bronze-naped Pigeon, African Emerald Cuckoo, Sooty Flycatcher
and Stuhlmann’s and Purple-headed Starlings. We found a male Yellow-crested
Woodpecker drumming in a large dead tree.
However, most species inhabit the mid-storey. Calls
allowed us to track down Bar-tailed Trogon, Dusky Long-tailed Cuckoo and
an African Broadbill in enchanting display. Other species, such as Many-coloured
Bush-Shrike and Olive Long-tailed Cuckoo, were more stubborn, refusing
to show themselves. Many species also frequented mixed-species flocks,
dominated by small insectivores. Noteworthy species included Elliot’s
Woodpecker, Thick-billed Seedeater, Ruwenzori Blue-headed Sunbird (ARE),
Green-throated Sunbird, Northern Double-collared Sunbird, Brown-capped
Weaver, Shelley’s Greenbul, Red-tailed Greenbul, Black-throated
Apalis, Mountain Masked Apalis (ARE), Red-faced Woodland Warbler (ARE),
Dusky-blue Flycatcher, Grey Apalis, White-bellied Robin-Chat, Toro Olive
Greenbul (a particularly good find), Ansorge’s Greenbul, White-bellied
Crested-Flycatcher, Grey-headed Sunbird and Yellow-eyed Black Flycatcher
(ARE). Raptors were notable for their absence, with only Black Goshawk
being seen within the forest, although a calling Congo Serpent Eagle was
certainly a surprise.
From Buhoma we made our way to Ruhija, stopping en route
to admire a soaring Augur Buzzard, dainty flocks of Yellow-bellied Waxbill,
Yellow Bishop, Brown-backed Scrub-Robin and female Red-headed Bluebill,
which unfortunately disappeared rather quickly. A short stop at the neck
proved very worthwhile, with a pair of Mountain Wagtails on the road and
one of the least-known AREs, Dwarf Honeyguide, showing particularly well.
Once at Ruhija we organised ourselves in our new base before heading further
up the road to the bamboo zone. On the way L’Hoest’s Monkey
and Black-fronted Red Duiker were spotted in the road. We quickly notched
up several other AREs, including Collared/Ruwenzori Apalis and Strange
Weaver. Other species vying for our attention included a perched African
Hobby, Stripe-breasted Tit, White-tailed Blue Flycatcher, Eastern Mountain
Greenbul, Chestnut-throated Apalis, White-browed Crombec and a particularly
confiding Black-headed Waxbill. Lagden’s Bush-Shrike called from
nearby, but refused to show itself. After dark Ruwenzori Nightjar sang
incessantly from the valley below us, but refused to come any closer for
a view.
Our final day was spent walking down to Mabwindi Swamp,
a tough but very rewarding trail passing over a series of ridges before
dropping steadily to a large upland swamp. As we set off, we were surprised
to hear Chiffchaff singing nearby. On the initial stretch of the walk,
high altitude species such as Grey Cuckooshrike and Yellow-streaked Greenbul
were conspicuous. As we dropped down, these were joined also by the likes
of Tullberg’s/Fine-banded Woodpecker and Waller’s and Slender-billed
Starlings. At the bottom, the canopy opens up, with rank grown along several
streams, the favoured habitat of Yellow-eyed Black Flycatcher (ARE), Archer’s
Robin-Chat (ARE), Grauer’s Warbler (ARE), Mountain Yellow Warbler
and Cinnamon Bracken Warbler, all seen well. Perhaps the biggest surprise
of the day was how easily Grauer’s Rush Warbler (ARE) showed itself,
with a pair feeding right on the edge of the swamp, while another ARE,
Regal Sunbird favoured the flowering plants on the edge of the swamp.
The walk back was hard work, but was rewarded by two separate sightings
of Dusky Crimsonwing (ARE) foraging right on the verge of the road.
Energised by our successful trek, we decided to round
the day off with a short drive, which produced Variable Sunbird, Doherty’s
Bush-Shrike and a smart, perched Peregrine.
Day 11: Bwindi
Impenetrable National Park to Entebbe
With a long drive ahead of us, we had only a couple of hours of final
birding in Bwindi. Setting out at sunrise, we kept our eyes trained on
the verge of the road for any gamebirds, and after a few twists and turns
were rewarded with our target, Handsome Francolin (ARE). Overcast skies
meant that birds took a while to wake up, but we did managed to find White-starred
Robin and Sharpe’s Starling before it was time to hit the road.
Our journey back went very smoothly, with stops only for noteworthy roadside
birds such as Grey-crowned Crane and Fan-tailed Widow, and a longer lunch
stop that produced Little Bee-eater, several Common Snipe and a noisy
group of Black-lored Babbler.
Day 12: Entebbe
Botanical Gardens and departure
Our final morning was spent in the very birdy Botanical Gardens of Entebbe.
Despite having already racked up over 400 species on our short trip, we
managed to add excellent views of White-throated Bee-eater, Lizard Buzzard,
Grey-capped Warbler, Red-bellied Paradise Flycatcher and Northern Black
Flycatcher. Our final bird, fittingly, was a fine Ross’s Turaco,
which we eventually walked away from – we had a flight to catch!
