Birding Africa












Trip Report

Febuary 2006


Tour leaders: Callan Cohen and Michael Mills

This 11-day, exploratory trip was designed to investigate dry-country birding of Mali, combined with visits to Timbuktu and Dogon Country, some of Africa’s most famous historical sites. The main habitats birded were the fringes of the Sahara desert, the Sahel, Guinea Woodlands and the Niger River and associated wetlands. Highlights from this trip included Pharaoh’s/Desert Eagle Owl, Cream-coloured Courser, Red-necked Nightjar, Mali Firefinch, Ferruginous Duck, Egyptian Plover, Little Grey Woodpecker, Western Red-billed Hornbill, Sudan Golden Sparrow, Desert Sparrow, Lavender Waxbill, Fulvous Chatterer, White-crowned Black Wheatear, Desert Lark, Great Snipe, House Bunting and Sardinian Warbler.

DAY 1: Bamako area
Our tour kicked off in Bamako, a large, sprawling city set on the banks of the languid Niger River. Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird, Common Chiffchaff and delicate Lavender Waxbill and African Silverbill frequented our hotel gardens, where we all gathered. In the early afternoon we forced our way through town traffic and drove some 50km west of Bamako, in search of Guinea Woodlands. En route, we found Red-throated and Northern Carmine Bee-eaters drifting overhead. Well-developed woodland along the base of a rocky hillside looked promising, so we took the opportunity for a gentle introductory amble. Double-spurred Francolin and Stone Partridge favoured tall grass and rocks along the cliffs, whereas Red-necked Rock Hyrax hopped along the cliff tops. In the woodlands below, we found a large, mixed foraging flock of birds including a pair of Fine-spotted Woodpecker, dainty Senegal Eremomela, raucous Brown Babblers and Yellow-billed Shrikes, Pygmy and Beautiful Sunbirds, Grey-headed Bush-Shrike, White Helmetshrike and Red-cheeked Cordon-Blue. We also found Black-billed and Vinaceous Doves, Senegal Parrot, Western Grey Plantain-eater, Western Red-billed Hornbill, a couple of striking Bearded Barbets and a single, timid European Pied Flycatcher. We timed our return in the evening to watch the sun setting over the Niger River.

DAY 2: Bamako to Gao
Gao, in the far east of the country, was, like its more famous cousin, Timbuktu, an important trading post in 1500 and 1600s. Today its importance is much diminished, although getting there couldn’t be easier. From Bamako we flew eastwards, stopping at Mopti (Village Indigobird and Greater Blue-eared Starling) and Timbuktu on our way. Our arrival was followed with a relaxed lunch in the hotel gardens, accompanied by Blue-naped Mousebird. But we wasted no time in getting out to the surrounding plains. Not far out of town, we flushed from the road a pair of Desert Larks, and shortly afterwards a small flock of Black-crowned Sparrowlarks. Nearby, Acacia thickets held Black Scrub-Robin. Next, a large flock of Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse was spotted foraging on the ground, in the company of African Collared Dove, followed by Northern Wheatear and a party of five Fulvous Chatterers scurrying from bush to bush. As the sun kissed the horizon, we spotted our first flock of Cream-coloured Courser, which we watched dart about until it was too dark to see. We rounded off a great afternoon with a short night drive, finding Sand Fox and Red-necked Nightjar, calling incessantly.

DAY 3: Gao area
With a full day to explore the Saharan edge around Gao, we made an early start, crossing the Niger River to the west. As we waited for our ferry, we scanned the banks of the river, finding African Jacana, Black-winged Stilt, our first of many Egyptian Plover, Spur-winged Lapwing and, in the rank river-side vegetation, Black-headed Weaver. Overhead, tens of Purple Herons were heading out to forage, together with the odd Spur-winged Goose and Knob-billed Duck. Several Western Marsh Harriers were also in search of breakfast.

Not far out of town we came to a screeching halt; our second group of Cream-coloured Coursers had been spotted. In the sharp mourning light we admired all their finer features, eventually distracted by several warbler species in a nearby thicket: Western Bonelli’s, Western Orphean and Subalpine Warblers. Further on, in a sea of sand dunes, we went for a long stroll, finding several Saharan species. These included Southern Grey Shrike, Brown-necked Raven, Cricket Warbler and Black-eared Wheatear. The highlight was a sharp African Swallow-tailed Kite, which lazily circled over our head. On our way back to Gao for lunch, we found our first of many Sudan Golden Sparrows, before heading out to some nearby cliffs for the afternoon. Around the base of the cliffs, a pair of Crested Larks and several House Buntings fed quietly among the dark gravel. A Blackstart flitted about nervously, flicking its wings in agitation. Along one of the densely-chocked gullies we found a striking pair of Yellow-breasted Barbets and a party of Little Green Bee-eaters, but the undoubted champion was a stunning Pharaoh’s Eagle Owl, that sat sunning itself for the last hour of light, its big orange eyes glowing like the sun.

DAY 4: Gao to Timbuktu
With the long, sandy drive to Timbuktu ahead of us, we set off before sunrise, our highly accomplished Taureg driver, Baba, at the helm. We bounced along the north bank of the Niger, with the occasional Taureg town perched along its banks. At one of these, we made a breakfast stop to examine a large group of terns and waders, with Black-tailed Godwit, Spotted and Common Redshanks, Gull-billed and Caspian Terns and Pied Wagtail in its ranks. One of the more surprising finds was White-crowned Black Wheatear, which frequented rooftops in most of the villages. Several raptors put in an appearance, most noteworthy of which included a lone Egyptian Vulture soaring over the desert, a Red-necked Falcon perched in a Niger-side palm and a smart Lanner sitting atop a rose-coloured sand dune. Few birds were seen in the desert, although one flock of about 15 Greater Short-toed Lark was found. We reached Timbuktu in the late afternoon, with the sense that the nature of the journey was befitting of our destination.

DAYS 5 and 6: Timbuktu – deserts and lakes
The vicinity of Timbuktu offers excellent desert and wetland birding in spectacular surrounds. The town itself warranted some of our attention too – we were at the ends of the world, after all - particularly the impressive mosque. We had two full days to explore the area of Timbuktu, and to acquaint ourselves with one of the most famous, yet least-visited, places on earth.

Once again with our revered driver, Baba, in charge, we sailed through the sand dunes north of Timbuktu. Dune after dune stretched as far as the eye could see, only occasionally interrupted by a Taureg nomad with camels. Although the birding wasn’t spectacular, the experience of driving deeper into the Sahara from Timbuktu was not to be sneezed at. We also found our only Desert Sparrows of the trip, small flocks feeding among Fulvous Chatterers, and a particularly popular Arabian Bustard, which watched us warily from atop a dune.

To the west of Timbuktu, stands of Acacias were more prominent, holding a greater array of species. One stop was particularly productive, producing Black Scimitarbill, a pair of Great-spotted Cuckoos, three Little Grey Woodpeckers, arguably Africa’s least-seen woodpecker, and a surprise Sardinian Warbler.

The birding highlight of the Timbuktu area, however, is a series of lakes located some 80 to 100 km to the west of the city. We spent a day exploring these, and were not disappointed, particularly by the numbers of Palaearctic migrants. Raptors were plentiful, with at least 30 individuals seen at one of the lakes; among these were Short-toed Eagles, Montagu’s, Western Marsh and Pallid Harriers and Booted Eagles. The lake shores hosted thousands of wading birds, including the occasional Collared Pratincole and Common Ringed Plover, many Little Ringed and Kittlitz’s Plovers, Temminck’s Stint and a lone Great Snipe. These were accompanied by the likes of Eurasian Turtle-Dove, Ethiopian Swallow, Yellow Wagtail by the thousand, Red-throated Pipit, Sedge Warbler, Cinnamon-chested Bunting and White-rumped Seedeater. In the more swampy areas we found impressive numbers of herons, and a healthy population of Purple Swamphen. The highlight, however, was a flock of wintering waterfowl that must have been some 100 000 strong. Most of these were Northern Shoveller, Garganey or Northern Pintail, but some 5 000 plus Ferruginous Duck joined their ranks. An impressive sight!

DAY 7: Timbuktu to Douentza
Leaving the sand seas of the Sahara behind us, we crossed back over the Niger River and made our way southwards towards Douentza, through the Reserve of Elephants. The wind had picked up considerably today and most birds were lying low, although we did find a Tawny Eagle perched next to the road, in an area of open dunes with scattered trees. Nearer Douentza trees became more prominent, with groves of Faidherbia attracting Abyssinian Roller, Woodchat Shrike, White-billed Buffalo Weaver, Speckle-fronted Weaver and Northern Long-tailed Starling.

DAY 8: Dogon Country (Douentza to Sanga to Bandiangara)
After Timbuktu, the most famous region of Mali is Dogon country, with its unusual cliff villages located along the 200 m high Bandiangara Escarpment. The escarpment itself rises steeply out of a wide, flat Sahelian plain, onto the rocky Dogon Plateau. We spent the better part of two days exploring this unusual area.

En route from Douentza we found a lone Red-necked Buzzard perched in a Faidherbia with a group of Mottled and Alpine Swifts swirling overhead. The shrieks of Rose-ringed Parakeet had now become a regular feature, while a pair of Vieillott’s Barbet were finally located, having heard them on several occasions previously. Herds of cattle provided rich pickings for groups of Yellow-billed Oxpecker, and did a good job of disturbing insects for noisy bands of Piapiacs. Once we’d reached the escarpment, a new suite of species appeared. Among the most conspicuous birds were wild-breeding Rock Doves, flocks of jet-black Neumann’s Starling, Mocking Cliff Chat and Fox Kestrel, more common here than perhaps anywhere else in Africa. Grassy areas along the escarpment hid coveys of Stone Partridge, the occasional Sun Lark, scarce Rock-loving Cisticola and flocks of seedeaters, including Black-rumped Waxbill and Mali’s only endemic bird Mali Firefinch. Bare areas on top of the plateau were frequented by Black-headed Lapwing, with Acacia thickets revealing a striking Cutthroat and Guinea Woodlands a Rufous-crowned Roller.

No trip to Dogon country, however, would be complete without a visit to one of the cliff villages, which surpassed everyone’s expectations. At the village of Irelli we climbed towards the base of the steep cliffs, winding through narrow passages through high-walled pantries, admiring Dogon doors and locks and the unusual Togunas, while being regaled with far-fetched stories about flying Tellem, the constructors of the bizarre buildings plastered high up along the inaccessible cliffs. An experience not to be missed!

DAYS 10-12: Back to Bamako (Bandiangara to Djenne to Segou to Bamako)
It was time to complete our journey westwards to Bamako. Still some 1000 km away, we broke our journey with two overnight stops, one at Djenne with its infamous Mosque and colourful Monday market, and one at Segou.

The floodplains along the Niger River around Djenne were excellent for birds. Here we added to our list Black Stork and, on the already-dry floodplain, Temminck’s Courser and African Qualfinch. Acacia thickets played home to Greater Whitethroat and Northern Paradise Whydah. Along the river itself we said our farewells to a firm favourite, the iconic Egyptian Plover. Around Segou, woodlands hosted flocks of starlings, including Lesser Blue-eared and Purple Starlings, Common Gonolek and, finally Red-chested Swallow.

We’d like to thank Françoise Dowsett-Lemaire, Bob Dowsett, Andrew Hester and Olivier Girard for sharing information with us, and especially Mary Crickmore who hosted us on a morning’s birding outing near Bamako.


PELECANIFORMES: Phalacrocoracidae
1. Long-tailed Cormorant Phalacrocorax africanus

2. Darter Anhinga melanogaster Near-threatened

3. Gray Heron Ardea cinerea
4. Goliath Heron Ardea goliath
5. Purple Heron Ardea purpurea
6. Great Egret Ardea alba
7. Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia
8. Little Egret Egretta garzetta
9. Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides
10. Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
11. Striated Heron Butorides striata
12. Black-crowned Night-Heron Nycticorax nycticorax

13. Hamerkop Scopus umbretta

14. Black Stork Ciconia nigra
15. White Stork Ciconia ciconia

CICONIIFORMES: Threskiornithidae
16. Sacred Ibis Threskiornis aethiopicus
17. Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus

18. Fulvous Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna bicolor
19. White-faced Whistling-Duck Dendrocygna viduata
20. Spur-winged Goose Plectropterus gambensis
21. Comb Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos
22. Northern Pintail Anas acuta
23. Garganey Anas querquedula
24. Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata
25. Ferruginous Pochard Aythya nyroca Near-threatened

26. Osprey Pandion haliaetus

27. Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus
28. Scissor-tailed Kite Chelictinia riocourii
29. Black Kite Milvus migrans
30. Hooded Vulture Necrosyrtes monachus
31. Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus
32. Short-toed Eagle Circaetus gallicus
33. Bateleur Terathopius ecaudatus
34. Western Marsh-Harrier Circus aeruginosus
35. Pallid Harrier Circus macrourus Near-threatened
36. Montagu's Harrier Circus pygargus
37. Lizard Buzzard Kaupifalco monogrammicus
38. Dark Chanting-Goshawk Melierax metabates
39. Gabar Goshawk Micronisus gabar
40. Shikra Accipiter badius
41. Red-necked Buzzard Buteo auguralis
42. Tawny Eagle Aquila rapax
43. Booted Eagle Aquila pennatus

44. Eurasian Kestrel Falco tinnunculus
45. Fox Kestrel Falco alopex
46. Red-necked Falcon Falco chicquera
47. Lanner Falcon Falco biarmicus

GALLIFORMES: Phasianidae
48. Double-spurred Francolin Francolinus bicalcaratus
49. Stone Partridge Ptilopachus petrosus

50. Black Crake Amaurornis flavirostris
51. Purple Swamphen Porphyrio porphyrio

52. Arabian Bustard Ardeotis arabs

53. African Jacana Actophilornis africanus

CHARADRIIFORMES: Recurvirostridae
54. Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus

55. Egyptian Plover Pluvianus aegyptius
56. Cream-colored Courser Cursorius cursor
57. Temminck's Courser Cursorius temminckii
58. Collared Pratincole Glareola pratincola

59. Spur-winged Plover Vanellus spinosus
60. Black-headed Lapwing Vanellus tectus
61. Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula
62. Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius
63. Kittlitz's Plover Charadrius pecuarius

64. Great Snipe Gallinago media Near-threatened
65. Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa
66. Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus
67. Common Redshank Tringa totanus
68. Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis
69. Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia
70. Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus
71. Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola
72. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos
73. Little Stint Calidris minuta
74. Temminck's Stint Calidris temminckii
75. Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea
76. Ruff Philomachus pugnax

77. Gray-headed Gull Larus cirrocephalus

78. Gull-billed Tern Sterna nilotica
79. Caspian Tern Sterna caspia
80. Common Tern Sterna hirundo
81. Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybridus

82. Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse Pterocles exustus

83. Rock Dove Columba livia
84. Speckled Pigeon Columba guinea
85. Eurasian Turtle-Dove Streptopelia turtur
86. African Collared-Dove Streptopelia roseogrisea
87. African Mourning Dove Streptopelia decipiens
88. Red-eyed Dove Streptopelia semitorquata
89. Vinaceous Dove Streptopelia vinacea
90. Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis
91. Black-billed Wood-Dove Turtur abyssinicus
92. Namaqua Dove Oena capensis

93. Rose-ringed Parakeet Psittacula krameri
94. Senegal Parrot Poicephalus senegalus

CUCULIFORMES: Musophagidae
95. Western Plantain-eater Crinifer piscator

96. Great Spotted Cuckoo Clamator glandarius
97. Common Cuckoo Cuculus canorus
98. Dideric Cuckoo Chrysococcyx caprius
99. Senegal Coucal Centropus senegalensis

100. Barn Owl Tyto alba

101. Northern White-faced Owl Ptilopsis leucotis
102. Pharaoh Eagle-Owl Bubo ascalaphus
103. Pearl-spotted Owlet Glaucidium perlatum

104. Red-necked Nightjar Caprimulgus ruficollis

105. Mottled Spinetail Telacanthura ussheri
106. African Palm-Swift Cypsiurus parvus
107. Alpine Swift Tachymarptis melba
108. Mottled Swift Tachymarptis aequatorialis
109. Little Swift Apus affinis
110. White-rumped Swift Apus caffer

111. Blue-naped Mousebird Urocolius macrourus

112. Malachite Kingfisher Alcedo cristata
113. Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis

114. Red-throated Bee-eater Merops bulocki
115. Green Bee-eater Merops orientalis
116. Northern Carmine Bee-eater Merops nubicus

117. Abyssinian Roller Coracias abyssinica
118. Rufous-crowned Roller Coracias naevia
119. Broad-billed Roller Eurystomus glaucurus

120. Hoopoe Upupa epops

CORACIIFORMES: Phoeniculidae
121. Green Woodhoopoe Phoeniculus purpureus
122. Black Scimitar-bill Rhinopomastus aterrimus

123. Red-billed Hornbill Tockus erythrorhynchus
124. African Gray Hornbill Tockus nasutus

PICIFORMES: Capitonidae
125. Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird Pogoniulus chrysoconus
126. Vieillot's Barbet Lybius vieilloti
127. Bearded Barbet Lybius dubius
128. Yellow-breasted Barbet Trachyphonus margaritatus

PICIFORMES: Indicatoridae
129. Greater Honeyguide Indicator indicator

130. Fine-spotted Woodpecker Campethera punctuligera
131. Little Gray Woodpecker Dendropicos elachus
132. Gray Woodpecker Dendropicos goertae

133. Chestnut-backed Sparrow-Lark Eremopterix leucotis
134. Black-crowned Sparrow-Lark Eremopterix nigriceps
135. Desert Lark Ammomanes deserti
136. Greater Short-toed Lark Calandrella brachydactyla
137. Crested Lark Galerida cristata
138. Sun Lark Galerida modesta

139. Bank Swallow Riparia riparia
140. Rock Martin Hirundo fuligula
141. Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica
142. Red-chested Swallow Hirundo lucida
143. Ethiopian Swallow Hirundo aethiopica

144. White Wagtail Motacilla alba
145. Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava
146. Red-throated Pipit Anthus cervinus

147. Common Bulbul Pycnonotus barbatus

148. African Thrush Turdus pelios

149. Red-faced Cisticola Cisticola erythrops
150. Rock-loving Cisticola Cisticola aberrans
151. Tawny-flanked Prinia Prinia subflava
152. Cricket Longtail Spiloptila clamans
153. Green-backed Camaroptera Camaroptera brachyura

154. Sedge Warbler Acrocephalus schoenobaenus
155. Eastern Olivaceous Warbler Hippolais pallida
156. Senegal Eremomela Eremomela pusilla
157. Northern Crombec Sylvietta brachyura
158. Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita
159. Western Bonelli's Warbler Phylloscopus bonelli
160. Greater Whitethroat Sylvia communis
161. Western Orphean Warbler Sylvia hortensis
162. Subalpine Warbler Sylvia cantillans
163. Sardinian Warbler Sylvia melanocephala

164. Pale Flycatcher Bradornis pallidus
165. European Pied Flycatcher Ficedula hypoleuca
166. African Scrub-Robin Cercotrichas minor
167. Black Scrub-Robin Cercotrichas podobe
168. Common Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus
169. White-tailed Wheatear Oenanthe leucopyga
170. Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe
171. Black-eared Wheatear Oenanthe hispanica
172. Familiar Chat Cercomela familiaris
173. Blackstart Cercomela melanura
174. Northern Anteater-Chat Myrmecocichla aethiops
175. Mocking Cliff-Chat Thamnolaea cinnamomeiventris

176. Fulvous Chatterer Turdoides fulvus
177. Brown Babbler Turdoides plebejus

PASSERIFORMES: Nectariniidae
178. Pygmy Sunbird Hedydipna platura
179. Scarlet-chested Sunbird Chalcomitra senegalensis
180. Beautiful Sunbird Cinnyris pulchellus

181. African Yellow White-eye Zosterops senegalensis

182. African Golden Oriole Oriolus auratus

183. Southern Gray Shrike Lanius meridionalis
184. Woodchat Shrike Lanius senator
185. Yellow-billed Shrike Corvinella corvina

PASSERIFORMES: Malaconotidae
186. Northern Puffback Dryoscopus gambensis
187. Black-crowned Tchagra Tchagra senegala
188. Common Gonolek Laniarius barbarus
189. Gray-headed Bushshrike Malaconotus blanchoti

190. White Helmetshrike Prionops plumatus

191. Fork-tailed Drongo Dicrurus adsimilis

192. Piapiac Ptilostomus afer
193. Pied Crow Corvus albus
194. Brown-necked Raven Corvus ruficollis

195. Greater Blue-eared Glossy-Starling Lamprotornis chalybaeus
196. Lesser Blue-eared Glossy-Starling Lamprotornis chloropterus
197. Purple Glossy-Starling Lamprotornis purpureus
198. Long-tailed Glossy-Starling Lamprotornis caudatus
199. Chestnut-bellied Starling Lamprotornis pulcher
200. Neumann's Starling Onychognathus neumanni
201. Yellow-billed Oxpecker Buphagus africanus

202. White-billed Buffalo-Weaver Bubalornis albirostris
203. Speckle-fronted Weaver Sporopipes frontalis
204. Little Weaver Ploceus luteolus
205. African Masked-Weaver Ploceus velatus
206. Village Weaver Ploceus cucullatus
207. Black-headed Weaver Ploceus melanocephalus
208. Red-headed Weaver Anaplectes rubriceps
209. Red-billed Quelea Quelea quelea
210. Orange Bishop Euplectes franciscanus

211. Green-winged Pytilia Pytilia melba
212. Red-billed Firefinch Lagonosticta senegala
213. Mali Firefinch Lagonosticta virata Endemic
214. Red-cheeked Cordonbleu Uraeginthus bengalus
215. Lavender Waxbill Estrilda caerulescens
216. Orange-cheeked Waxbill Estrilda melpoda
217. Black-rumped Waxbill Estrilda troglodytes
218. African Quailfinch Ortygospiza atricollis
219. African Silverbill Lonchura cantans
220. Bronze Mannikin Lonchura cucullata
221. Cut-throat Amadina fasciata

222. Village Indigobird Vidua chalybeata
223. Pin-tailed Whydah Vidua macroura
224. Northern Paradise-Whydah Vidua orientalis

225. House Bunting Emberiza striolata
226. Cinnamon-breasted Bunting Emberiza tahapisi
227. Golden-breasted Bunting Emberiza flaviventris
228. Brown-rumped Bunting Emberiza affinis

229. White-rumped Seedeater Serinus leucopygius
230. Yellow-fronted Canary Serinus mozambicus

231. Gray-headed Sparrow Passer griseus
232. Desert Sparrow Passer simplex
233. Sudan Golden-Sparrow Passer luteus
234. Bush Petronia Petronia dentata

About Birding Africa

Birding Africa is a specialist birding tour company customising tours for both world listers and more relaxed holiday birders, and combining interests in mammals, butterflies, dragonflies, plants and other natural history. Our guides know the continents birds like few others; we've written two acclaimed guide books on where to find Southern Africa's and Madagascar's best birds and will guide you to Africa's and Madagascar's most diverse birding destinations. Birding is more than our passion, it's our lifestyle and we are dedicated to making professional best value trips filled with endemic species and unique wildlife experiences. Since 1997, we've run bird watching tours in South Africa and further into Africa for individual birders, small birding groups and top international tour companies. We've run Conservation Tours in association with the African Bird Club and work with and consult for a number of other top international tour companies and the BBC Natural History Unit

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