Cameroon is an essential destination for any birder serious about sampling
Africa's best birds. Its mind-boggling diversity of habitats stretches
from lowland equatorial forests, through highland forests, grasslands
and Guinea woodlands, to the arid Saharan edge. Most notable of these
habitats are the highland forests, which form the core of one of Africa's
most significant Endemic Bird Areas, the Cameroon Mountains EBA. This
region harbours a staggering 25 endemics, including the critically endangered
Mount Kupe Bush-shrike (described in 1952 and only 25 individuals recorded
since then) and mythical Bannerman's Turaco. Other key African species
that are best searched for in Cameroon include African Piculet, Crossley's
Ground Thrush, Quail Plover, Egyptian Plover, Spotted Thrush Babbler,
Schlegel's Francolin and Cricket Warbler.
This tour is centred on the endemic-filled highlands, with the primary
aim of finding all the Cameroon Mountains endemics (excluding Mount Cameroon
Francolin, which requires three days of single-minded dedication). To
complement this, and to record a representative cross-section of Cameroon's
tremendous bird diversity, we also visit the more arid north and the lowland
forest of Korup National Park.
For the third year running we successfully located all range-restricted
species confined to the Cameroon Mountains, including Mount Kupe Bush-shrike,
Banded Wattle-eye and Bannerman's Turaco. A further two taxa, Cameroon
Pipit and Alexander's Akalat, usually regarded as species endemic to the
Cameroon Mountains EBA, were also recorded. All but one of the EBA species
were seen by all members of our party. This year we also succeeded in
breaking the 600 species mark.
Who could forget the flock of Hartlaub's Duck at the roadside of the very
first morning, elegant African Swallow-tailed Kites circling low overhead,
a pair of Schlegel's Francolin quietly stalking by, saturation views of
the bizarre Quail-plover, the deep, booming call of Nkulengu Rail ringing
through camp at night, an Erythrina tree abuzz with 10 sunbird species,
including Johanna's Sunbird, and the joy of a pair of Mount Cameroon Speirops
after a long, hard slog up West Africa's highest mountain. Other highlights
included repeated perch-views of the tricky Cameroon Olive Pigeon, a Beaudouin's
Snake Eagle soaring nearby, dainty Grey Pratincoles chasing insects along
sandbars, the localized Adamawa Turtle Dove cooing from the gallery forest,
a pair of immaculate Rose-ringed Parakeet at their nest, Bannerman's Turaco
swooping through mossy montane forests, a gorgeous Vermiculated Fishing
Owl scoped in the spotlight, a male Standard-winged Nightjar silhouetted
against the pale dawn sky, a male Bare-cheeked Trogon swallowing air before
calling, a gaudy Blue-headed bee-eater hunting in a small forest glade,
a pair of Blue-bellied Roller, a Black Dwarf Hornbill sitting silently
in the rainforest canopy, a raucous party of White-crested Hornbills,
the swooshing of colossal Black-casqued and Yellow-casqued Hornbill wings
overhead, a pair of minuscule African Piculet feeding young, a pair of
rare Rufous-rumped Lark and little-known Bannerman's Pipit, scolding calls
from Sjostedt's Honeyguide Greenbul, the delicate Alexander's Akalat in
the dark, moist forest under-storey, a crisp male White-fronted Black
Chat calling from its prominent perch, the sweet, fluty call of Crossley's
Ground Thrush, an agitated White-tailed Warbler flitting her stump-tail
and a pair of Banded Wattle-eye.
Tour Itinerary:
1 February: Sanaga River
After an early morning breakfast, we left Douala and headed south towards
Edea and the Sanaga River. As we headed out of the bustling city of Douala
the habitat improved markedly and we soon were seeing small groups of
Piping Hornbills on their morning forays. Our first stop was at an idyllic
wetland, which was surrounded by relatively good condition forest. Hartlaub's
Duck was the prize here, with three individuals of this beautiful but
often elusive species allowing awesome views! Other notable birds at this
stop included Orange-cheeked Waxbill, Carmelite Sunbird, Black Sparrowhawk,
Grey Parrot and Bates' Swift. An additional six Hartlaub's Duck flew in
and alighted in nearby trees.
A pair
of Hartlaub's Duck, Africa's most striking and only true rainforest
duck.
Large numbers of Preuss's Cliff Swallow were in attendance
as we crossed the Sanaga River near Edea. We soon arrived at our destination,
a large patch of lowland forest, and proceeded on foot. To those whom
have not experienced lowland forest birding before, the experience could
be considered somewhat overwhelming! It proved quite challenging for all
to get on to the numerous canopy species as they flitted restlessly past,
allowing split second views. When they did eventually pause, the spotting
scopes were invaluable in allowing all in the party to have a good look.
We were inundated by a barrage of Greenbuls that included Golden, Red-tailed,
Spotted, Cameroon Sombre, Slender-billed and Little. Other notable birds
included Great Blue Turaco, Grey-throated and Yellow-spotted Barbets,
Chestnut Wattle-eye, White-thighed Hornbill, Brown-eared Woodpecker and
Yellow-throated Tinkerbird. A drive along the north bank of the Sanaga
produced numerous stunning Grey Pratincoles, undoubtedly one of the most
attractive waders, and African Skimmer.
2 February: Douala to Waza
An early flight saw us arriving in Maroua by mid-morning, where we met
Gabriel, our excellent driver for the next seven days. A stop for lunch
in town was very productive; highlights included Sub-alpine Warbler and
Rose-ringed Parakeet at a nest. The drive north to Waza was punctuated
by numerous stops. At each stop the spectacular bird diversity of the
arid Sahel continued to astound us. Our first "massive" bird of the north
was Swallow-tailed Kite, which saw the vehicle being evacuated in mere
seconds! Raptors, as could be expected, were well represented and we soon
added Short-toed Eagle, Grasshopper Buzzard and Fox Kestrel. Other roadside
birds included Crested Lark, Southern Grey Shrike, Grey-backed Fiscal
Shrike, Chestnut-bellied Starling and Northern Carmine and Little Green
Bee-eaters.
Seedeaters were common in and around the Campement de Waza. Mixed flocks
continually come to drink during the heat of the day, holding Black-rumped
Waxbill, Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu and African Silverbill. An afternoon
drive dedicated to finding the localized River Prinia was successful and
also produced Clapperton's Francolin, Sahel Paradise Whydah and Speckle-fronted
Weaver. A stop at a water hole after dusk produced fleeting views of Four-banded
Sandgrouse and more extended views of some Long-tailed Nightjars.
3 February: Waza National Park and Mora
An early morning start saw us at the entrance to Waza National Park, where
we saw our first Black Crowned Cranes flying overhead. The park was alive
with birds, including numerous Eurasian migrants such as Wryneck, Woodchat
Shrike, Whinchat and Western Marsh Harrier. A good number of vultures
waiting patiently around a water hole allowed us excellent views of Egyptian,
Ruppell's Griffon, African White-backed and Lappet-faced Vultures. The
sun was however getting high and our target bird, Arabian Bustard, was
notable by its absence!
Back to camp for lunch and we were ready to launch
an assault on the farmlands north of Mora. Our first target bird here
was Cricket Warbler, which was located without too much difficulty. Our
attention now shifted to the highly enigmatic Quail Plover. It was however
beginning to get dark, so we decided that a more intensive and concerted
effort would be employed the following day. Just after dusk we decided
that a "shot in the dark" for the Golden Nightjar was called for. We were
part of the group that located this master of camouflage here last year,
a first record for Cameroon. Although our efforts failed to turn up any
nightjars, they did not go totally un-rewarded; we found two wonderful
White-bellied Hedgehogs.
4 February: Waza National Park to Maroua
The morning of the fourth saw us put in a final effort to locate the Arabian
Bustard, for which we headed back into the park. Intensive scanning revealed
nothing and time was running out. We were just starting to discuss turning
around when a large bustard took to the air some 20 meters from us. Success!
We then made a beeline out of the park towards Michael, whom had been
tasked with locating Sennar Penduline Tit. He performed his task with
diligence and also produced a group of Spotted Redshanks.
Then it was time to head southwards, back to Quail Plover country. This
time, after just 20 minutes of transecting the fields, two minute birds
rose up from our feet and whirled away on their black and white wings.
We had them! After painful stalking and scanning one of the birds was
located on the ground where it allowed extensive scope views. The bird
put on the whole Quail Plover show and exhibited its amazing chameleon-like
walk! Spirits were high as we headed south to Maroua, only stopping once
at an impressive rocky hillside were we saw Rock-loving Cisticola, White-crowned
Cliff-chat and Stone Partridge.
5 February: Maroua to Benoue
A travel day that allowed us an hour's birding at the rocky hill north
of Maroua. Senegal Batis, White-headed Barbet and Lavender Waxbill were
the highlights of the morning. We arrived at Benoue National Park at dusk,
and did a night-drive towards the camp. On-route to our accommodation
at Campement du Buffle Noir we saw several mammals, including Senegal
Galago, White-tailed Mongoose and Red-flanked Duiker.
6 February: Benoue National Park
Waking up at dawn in the spectacular surrounds of Campement de Buffle
Noir was a real treat! Getting started on our walk to the river was problematic
as everywhere you looked was another stunning woodland bird! Birds in
and around the camp included Northern Black Flycatcher, Senegal Parrot,
Sulphur-breasted Bush-shrike, White-crowned Robin Chat and Senegal Eremomela.
On the way down to the river we located Red-throated Bee-eater, Bar-breasted
Firefinch, White-cheeked Oliveback, Fine-spotted Woodpecker, Oriole Warbler,
Red-winged Grey Warbler, Bearded Barbet, Violet Turaco and the localized
Adamawa Turtle Dove! An excellent record for Cameroon was the pair of
Black Stork, which drifted leisurely above us. An afternoon drive was
equally productive with Abyssinian Ground Hornbill, Black-faced Firefinch,
White-fronted Black Chat, Brown-backed Woodpecker and Western Grey Plantain-eater.
African Scops Owl and Freckled Nightjar were the spoils of a stint of
post dusk birding.
Egyptian
Plover can be reliable seen along the Benoue River
7 February: Benoue to Ngaoundaba
Ranch
Despite being primarily a travel day, the slow drive out of the park was
very rewarding! Blue-bellied Roller, Dorst's Cisticola, Northern Long-tailed
Starling, Beaudouin's Snake Eagle, Double-spurred Francolin and Bruce's
Green Pigeon were among the birds added to our ever-increasing trip list.
Our journey along the main road to Ngaoundere was interrupted by two very
profitable stops, which produced Piapiac and Sooty Chat. After a lunch
stop in Ngaoundere we headed for Ngouandaba Ranch, arriving with a few
hours of sunlight remaining. This time was put to good use and Yellow-throated
Leaflove, Black-crowned Waxbill, White-crested and Ross' Turaco were amongst
the numerous specials seen around the beautiful crater lake. The sight
and sound of thousands of starlings coming in to roosting on a lushly
vegetated island was truly a spectacle. The striking White-collared Starling
was conspicuous amongst its more numerous, typically coloured relatives.
Forest and
rank vegetation surround the crater lake at Ngaoundaba Ranch
8 February: Ngaoundaba Ranch
The first few rays of sunlight washed over us as we drove out from the
ranch headquarters for some early morning birding. We were soon very much
awake as we all started to scan for the Rufous-rumped Lark that Michael,
whom was walking ahead, had seen only moments before. After several anxious
minutes the bird was relocated and we were able to saturate ourselves
with great scope views. Sun Lark was next on the menu, but our attention
was soon drawn to the Schlegel's Francolins calling nearby! A combination
of silence, stealth and discreet playing of the bird's call proved effective,
and a pair of these small francolin ventured into the open.
Dybowski’s Twinspot, just one of many striking finches on
offer in Cameroon.
A forest patch just a short distance away was the next
destination. Here numerous seedeaters were feeding on the forest edge,
among them a pair of exquisite Dybowski's Twinspot. These birds proved
to be very obliging and allowed their full-framed images to be digi-scoped!
Other birds of the forest edge included Splendid Sunbird, Red-headed Weaver
and Cabanis' Bunting. The forests themselves concealed many highly desirable
birds and we located Blue-breasted Kingfisher, Spotted Thrush Babbler,
Grey-winged Robin Chat and the endemic Bamenda Apalis. Leaflove was highly
vocal but remained in thick foliage, making us work very hard before everyone
obtained satisfying views. A night drive rounded a great day off with
Black-shouldered Nightjar.
9 February: Ngaoundaba Ranch to Douala
A morning flight from the town of Ngaoundere to Douala meant that we had
to leave the ranch by 8 am. In an effort to maximize birding time we were
out birding at five! The hour of sleep that were sacrificed was soon forgotten
as a Standard-winged Nightjar rose from the road as our vehicle approached.
Its elaborate standards were clearly evident as it took off in the moonlight.
After a little effort the bird was relocated on the road where it sat
for all to enjoy. We then proceeded to the forest edge where we were saturated
with views of two Willcocks' Honeyguide as they hawked insects.
The plain-faced
Willcock’s Honeyguide lacks both the black submoustachial
stripe and white loral spot of other similar species.
10 February: Douala to Buea
After spending a night at our hotel in Douala, which had by now began
to feel very much like "base camp", we headed for Buea. A midday stop
at Limbe Botanical Gardens produced the first White-throated Bee-eaters
of the trip as well as a family of Cassin's Flycatchers and Rufous-vented
Paradise Flycatcher. It was then onwards to Buea where we had time to
relax and contemplate the long hike up Mount Cameroon that awaited us
the following day.
11 February: Mount Cameroon
At 6 am the next morning we were on our way to launch our assault up Mount
Cameroon. While waiting for our guide in the village, a flock of nine
Cameroon Olive Pigeons alighted in the upper, exposed branches of some
nearby trees, basking in the early morning rays of sunlight. Soon we were
on our way, halting periodically. The high number and quality of birds
in the forest ensured that the going was relatively slow. Cameroon Sunbird,
Yellow-bellied Wattle-eye, Naked-faced Barbet, Cassin's Honeybird, Green
Longtail and White-breasted Negrofinch all put in an appearance on the
lower slopes. Time was however limited and we had to ensure that we allowed
enough time to locate the two specials found only above the tree line
on Mount Cameroon. As we ascended we did spot White-bellied Crested Flycatcher,
Brown-backed Cisticola, Red-faced Crimsonwing and Gabon and Tullberg's
Woodpeckers. A well-deserved break was called for as we left the forest
and entered the grassland. The going was tough and the frequency and length
of the breaks began to increase. The sight of our first target however,
Mountain Saw-wing, spurred us on! The main target bird, Mount Cameroon
Speirops, was however proving to be more elusive. A Scaly Francolin exploding
from Hugh's feet provided some excitement. Eventually, after much persistence,
we were rewarded and a pair of Speirops that allowed extended views. The
mood was one of satisfaction mixed with pure relief! After glimpsing views
of the local race of Evergreen Forest Warbler we started the tough downward
hike. Needless to say, we all were pleased when we stumbled back to where
our vehicle waited.
12 February: Douala to Bamenda
Two Swedish birders, Cathrin and Rolf, had arrived in Douala the previous
evening to join us for the second leg of the trip. The long drive to Bamenda
allowed ample time for all to get well acquainted. After unpacking and
enjoying a quick lunch at the Skyline Hotel, we were off to Bafat-Ngemba
Forest Reserve. The term "forest reserve" is a euphemism for plantation,
but good birding is still to be had here. Before the light faded we located
Bannerman's Weaver with its undescribed young, Grey Apalis, Mackinnon's
Fiscal, Yellow-breasted Boubou and Thick-billed Seedeater.
13 February: Bamenda Highlands
Yet another early morning start saw us heading to Mount Oku. The forest
here is in excellent condition and the area was alive with birds! Top
birds here included Black-collared Apalis, Elliot's Woodpecker, Brown-capped
Weaver, Oriole Finch, Western Mountain Greenbul and African Hill Babbler.
The two specials here, Banded Wattle-eye and the famous Bannerman's Turaco,
were both very obliging. The high, treeless areas produced Cameroon Pipit
and Pectoral-patch Cisticola, as well as Bannerman's Pipit, sometimes
treated as the bannermani subspecies of Long-billed Pipit. An afternoon
drive towards Bali produced stunning views of Tit-hylia, Blue-billed Firefinch
and Orange-tufted Sunbird, while Bamenda Apalis was seen only fleetingly.
Bannerman's
Turacao
14 February: Bamenda to Nyasoso
Breakfast was followed by a stint of birding from the viewpoint in front
of the hotel. The most notable birds here were a splendid male White-crowned
Cliff-Chat and a pair of Neumann's Starlings. It was then back to Bafat-Ngemba
to try for Bangwa Forest Warbler. As could be expected this skulking warbler
gave us quite the run-around before all had obtained good views. Western
Green Tinkerbird, which had been eluding us, finally allowed great views
too. We then headed for Nyasoso at the foot of Mount Kupe.
15 February: Bakossi Mountains
After a great start of a pancake breakfast, courtesy of Lucy's Guest House,
we were off to the nearby Bakossi Mountains. On route we had great views
of a male Western Bluebill, Sooty Flycatcher and Forest Swallow. At Kodmin
we were ushered into the chief's hut where we partook in the mandatory
libation ritual. It was then back to birding mode and Petit's Cuckoo-shrike,
Common Cuckoo and Ursula's Sunbird were seen in the cultivated areas near
the forest edge. Deeper into the forest we located a female White-tailed
Warbler feeding confidingly in the undergrowth, as well as Bar-tailed
Trogon, Hairy-breasted Barbet, Thick-billed Honeyguide and Pink-footed
Puffback. The enigmatic special of the area, Mount Kupe Bush-shrike, remained
our focus. After some searching we found a single bird, but it flitted
restlessly through the mid-strata, allowing only brief views. The drive
back to Nyasoso produced Green Turaco and Dusky-blue Flycatcher.
16 February: Mount Kupe
Soon after first light we headed on foot from Lucy's Guest House and started
up the infamous Max's Trail. Birding in the secondary forest was very
prolific and the first bird party we located comprised of Wood Warbler,
Rufous-crowned Eremomela, Black-capped Apalis and an unusual Hyliota,
intermediate between Violet-backed and Southern and possibly still undescribed.
Other birds of the secondary forest included Black-and-White Shrike-Flycatcher,
Black-faced Rufous Warbler, Yellow-whiskered Greenbul, African Piculet
(with young!) and Rufous Flycatcher-Thrush. In the primary forest we were
privileged to see Crossley's Ground Thrush, Alexander's Akalat, Yellow-billed
Turaco and Yellow Longbill. Our slog up Max's Trail eventually yielded
Little Oliveback. Locating these little gems was relatively easy but obtaining
good views of them was another matter altogether! Eventually all obtained
satisfactory views and we began the long walk back down. A non-bird related
highlight was the finding of a spectacularly camouflaged chameleon, Rhampholeon
spectrum.
Crossley's
Ground Thrush
17 February: Bakossi Mountains
It was back to the Bakossi Mountains where we located White-bellied Robin
Chat, Black-necked Wattle-eye, Bates' Paradise Flycatcher and Sabine's
Spinetail. Mount Kupe Bush-shrike was again elusive, each time showing
us a little more if its plumage. Eventually everyone had obtained some
sort of view and we headed back to the village of Kodmin, hearing the
incredible display flight of Lyre-tailed Honeyguide above the forest canopy
and, regrettably, out of sight.
18 February: Lower Bakossi Mountains
We were dropped off near Kodmin at an impressive flowering Coral Tree
(Erythrina sp). The Coral Tree was alive with sunbirds and we recorded
10 species including, Blue-throated Brown, Superb, Johanna's and Bates'.
Michael and Simon then returned to Douala in order to collect Luba, who
joined us for Korup, and the supplies for our stay at Korup. We then proceeded
to walk back towards the 'main' road where we had a taxi waiting to take
us back to Nyasoso. The walk produced Luhder's and Bocage's Bush-Shrikes
as well as crippling views of Rufous-crowned Eremomela. That evening we
were lucky enough to accompany a herpetologist who was based at Nyasoso
on a walk to a chameleon study site. We located numerous Chamaeleo monteum
and several frog species. The highlight for many was the sighting of Africa's
most primitive primate, Potto (Perodicticus potto).
19-24 February: Korup National Park Coming soon…
Next scheduled
departure February 2005
(exact dates to be announced soon) Contact: cameroon@birdingafrica.com
Birding Africa is a specialist birding tour company customising tours
for both world listers and more relaxed holiday birders, and combining
interests in mammals, butterflies, dragonflies, plants and other natural
history. Our guides know the continents
birds like few others; we've written two acclaimed guide
books on where to find Southern Africa's and Madagascar's best birds
and will guide you to Africa's and Madagascar's most diverse birding destinations.
Birding is more than our passion, it's our lifestyle and we are dedicated
to making professional best value trips filled with endemic species and
unique wildlife experiences. Since 1997, we've run bird watching tours
in South Africa and further into Africa for individual birders, small
birding groups and top international tour companies. We've run Conservation
Tours in association with the African
Bird Club and work with and consult for a number of other top international
tour companies and the BBC Natural History Unit.
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information pages. For trip reports, please see our Trip
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